 1 Nha Trang
 2 Hoi An
 3 Hue (and massacre)
 4 Hanoi
 5 Hanoi services, eat, sleep
 6 Sapa
 7 Saigon


\1 Nha Trang

Capital of Khanh Hoa Province. Great coastal beach town with airport, train/bus stn. aquarium, library, and Long Son Pagoda.

Nha Trang caters to the senses. It's a place to relish doing nothing. Days revolved around the beach and easily spill from one to the next. Here's a sketch of a traveler's life in this seaside resort.

Mornings begins with exercise - well before the scorching sun rises locals stretch, twist and jog in place along a huge cement platform near the beach. Instead of Cher blasting from MTV monitors in health clubs, loud speakers broadcast propaganda. I witnessed this scene once, the day my bus departed at 6 o'clock.

My typical morning began several hours later and exercise consisted of a stroll to a beachfront caf for breakfast. Unlike much of Vietnam, mornings in Nha Trang (at least for both local and foreign tourists) extend past 8 o'clock and it's possible to enjoy a leisurely omelet and mango shake before stepping through rows of coconut palms to the sandy white beach. Chairs and umbrellas for rent along the 6 km beach function as a base camp. Roaming vendors, some catering to your stomach and others to your body, render movement unnecessary, except to cool off in the clear waters, which are ripe for snorkeling, scuba diving or simply bobbing in the waves.

Women tromp across the shore with miniature kitchens inside of whicker baskets, which hang from opposite ends of a pole balanced in the same fashion as body builders support bars of weights. If you twitch with just a slight sign of interest, the vendors, some more aggressive than others, will descend upon your base camp and prepare a snack. I selected a few crabs, which a young lady skillfully grilled on a portable stove. Though the flavors were unremarkable, the whole process of eating beachfront from a roving chef made a lasting impression. To cleanse the palate, I enjoyed slices of mango and dragon fruit prepared by one of the many ladies trekking across the sand with baskets of tropical fruits.

After a snooze to digest the food, a message began a series of body pampering activities. I was skeptical that such slight women would have the muscles to give a tingling massage, but within a few moments, my legs felt as loose as noodles. With one woman on either side, the ladies relaxed my body literally from toe to head, ending with a scalp massage. The women looked critically at my prickly legs - traveling among the backpackers relaxed my grooming regimes. One of the women gripped a dental floss like thread and slid it under some roots. Without warning she yanked the thread, pulling out my leg hairs form the roots. In a word - pain. She guaranteed her handiwork would keep my legs smooth for six months, but one patch was enough for me to decide to go home and shave.

Next, I indulged in a pedicure. I should have known this was going to be a bust between the sand and salty water. But I couldn't resist the novelty of lying on a beach chair and having my toes painted. A duo clipped, filed and painted my toes a fiery red, a shade I chose from the minimalist color spectrum, which included a frog green and fluorescent orange. Without fail, I had to pee within minutes of completion and my walk to the toilet transformed my toenails into canvases for sand art.

Back at my headquarters, it was time for more food: baby lobsters. I felt a bit squeamish about these crawly creatures, but the meat was delicately sublime - a perfect snack. My chef, a young lady who spoke no English, lingered under the shade of my umbrella while we conversed in the universal language of laughter.

I returned to my hotel for a shower and a lie down, weary from a full day in the sun. Refreshed I ventured out for more food beachside. A few restaurants serve delightful seafood - grilled fish, squid and shrimps. After dinner travelers congregate in a few beachfront bars - the Nha Trang Sailing Club is currently in vogue. With midnight raffles, sickenly sweet and dangerously potent shots, and dancing on tabletops, you could just as easily be at Club Med.

Just another day in Nha Trang. It's no wonder that my traveling companion waved me off to Hoi An, while he opted to stretch his time in Nha Trang.

Traveling by bus Nha Trang is about seven hours from Dalat and 12 hours to Hoi An - pack plenty of snacks, the food stops are horrendous. Abigail Walch, VASC

NHA TRANG - is a beach town. There are some people (e.g. Mama Hanh, or, nowadays the better choice, South Sea Tours) offering a boat trip for USD 7. This trip is very good value. Starting early (c8:30) you are taken to a place where you can swim and snorkel (use of equipment is free). Near noon we drove to a second place and while we did more swimming and snorkling (altho the equip is poor and there is not enough for all, you should bring your own). An excellent lunch was served. There were crabs, shrimps, several kinds of fish, vegetables, noodles, everything fresh and delicious.

The lunch alone would have cost much more than the price of the trip in a restaurant. In the afternoon we stopped at a beach on an island where a buffet of fresh local fruit was built up. Of course we had some more time for swimming. On the way back we stopped at a small fishing village. The usual return time is 16:30.

The cultural sights, the Cham towers and the pagoda with the giant sitting buddha were nice, but there were so many beggars that one couldn't really enjoy them. Also, it is advisable not to go at a time when there is a cruise ship in the harbour. Currently, they are under reconstruction. Entrance is VND 5000.

About 500m upriver from the Cham towers is a shipyard. The staff there is friendly enough to let people wander around and see how ships are constructed in a traditional way. Be friendly and do not take this courtesy as granted, in most western country people would not be allowed into a shipyard.

The fishing village south of Nha Trang is nice, but there are a lot of souvenir shops. The oceanographic institute is worth a visit.

There are excellent places for snorkelling and scuba diving. Equipment can be rented from several places, e.g. the Bao Dai Villas.

A car costs USD 30 to USD 46 to rent, depending on where you rent the car, quality, distance you intend to travel, bargaining luck, etc.

A motorcycle costs around USD 5 to 7 for 8 hours. Fuel is not included.

The airport departure tax is VND 10000.

Accommodation The Huong Nam Hotel at 13b1 Hoang Hoa Tham street has clean doubles with aircondition and hot water for USD 12. It is a small family run business that also offers the usual tours and mini-bus transportation to your next destination.

The Dong Phuong Hotel opened Mar 1996, offers nice, clean doubles for USD 15.

The Hai Yen at 40 Tran Phu asks USD 15 for a double room. It is just opposite the beach and offers a nice view.

The Vung Dao at 1 Tran Hung Dao is about two minutes from the beach and has rooms for about USD 15. There is a swimming pool.

The Hung Dao, 3 Tran Hung Dao (next door to the Vung Dao) has hotel rooms as well as bugalow style ones for about USD 10 to 12. There is a cheap travellers cafe with a travel agent near the gate.

In the same price range are the Cao Da and the Thang Loi hotels.

Even cheaper is the Nha Khach 62 at 62 Tran Phu (also at the beach). It charges only USD 7 for a double.

Hotel Thong Nhat at 18 Tran Phu (at the intersection with Yersin Boulevard) has many rooms with private bathrooms and hot shower, the cheapest around VND 80000.

The Que Huong Hotel at 60 Tran Phu Blvd is completely renewed. It is quiet, in front of the beach and has a swimming pool. Rates range from USD 30 to 45.

The Nha Trang Lodge Hotel at 42 Tran Phu is a 13-story hotel of Western std as are the prices, ranging from USD 50 to USD 145, inc breakfast. It is just 50m from the beach. During the day, it is noisy from the street.

The Ana Mandara Hotel at Tran Phu Blvd (the road to the airport) has rooms from USD 100 to 190.

The Lizzard Hotel has a nice bar called the Zippo Bar.

Eating - Nha Trangs speciality is seafood. It is comparatively cheap and everywhere fresh available.

Recommended is the Van Canh at 54 Phan Chu Trinh. This family restaurant offers excellent food and good, friendly service.

(Lotta and Johan) Banana Split cafe is a good travellers cafe. Note that the cafe next door, to the left, previously called 60's bar, thought the secret of success was in the name, and changed 60's bar to... Banana Split cafe! When we were there, all the people were in the real Banana Split, and the owners of "fake banana" yelled at passing tourists to get customers. (Banana Split is at 58 Quang Trung Street)

A cheap, friendly place it Quan An 98 at 98 Hoang Van Thu. They offer mostly delicious noodle soup.

Another good place are the rests on the sea shore oposite Haiyan hotel, but they are definitely much pricier.

An excellent restaurant is Hoan Hai at 6 Phan Chu Trinh, Tel 823133. The prices are reasonable.

A nice place is the restaurant just next to the jetty in the fishing village south of Nha Trang.

The vegetarian restuarant mentioned in the lonely planet guide near the circle market cooks an excellent (and exotic) Banana Flower.

The only place with some kind of night life in Nha Trang is the Lizard.

 Ldging  Much lodging around the RR (cheeper) and near the beach, also around the Bao Dai villas. Range $15-$20. 1997.

Huu Nghi Htl, GH 58, GH 62, GH 78, Ha Phung Htl. Nha Trang #1 or #2. Xuan Son Htl/Bus Stn.

--------------------------------------------------------- Introduction Nha Trang is the usual stop for most travellers on their way from the South to the center or vice versa. We liked the place, just to relax for 2 days on the beach, and go diving or take a boattrip.

Getting there By plane Nha Trang airport gets about 10 flights a week from Saigon (650.000 VND) and 1 daily flight from Danang (550.000 VND). The airport is very near to the town, a taxi won't cost much, bigger hotels will come and pick you up for free.

By train It is possible to take a night train, but I have no info on this.

By bus The night bus from Saigon is reasonable if you're lucky that it's not full. The buses coming from Hoi An and Dalat on the contrary are horribly uncomfortable due to the bad roads.

Accommodation We stayed at the Nha Trang Lodge. This is a big block on the other side of the road from the beach. Normal price is 50 US$ for a double, but they give promotions till 40 US$ including breakfast. Rooms are good with AC, TV, etc..., and most of them have a great view over the beach. However, as in most hotels is Vietnam, the isolation is not so good, so we had some noise at night from the Karaoke bar at 250 m from the hotel. The have a swimming pool, but they share it with another hotel, so you'll have to walk for 150 metres. However, the beach is just a 30 metres walk over the road.

Restaurants/Cafs Louisiana is a new place right on the beach, but they also have a swimming pool. It's kept by French people. Food is excellent, but understandibly a bit more expensive. The Sailing club is the place to be at night with good atmosphere. Omar's restaurant is a good Indian restaurant with 2 branches: Nguyen Thien Thuat St. 24c Tran Phu St. 96A/7

What to do Diving Which shops ? As soon as you set a foot in Nha Trang airport, you'll get leaflets from dive shops. In fact, business (and competition) has exploded in 2000. Before, only 2 shops where there, in 2000 4 new shops have opened, so in total there are now 6 shops. You can expect fierce competition, since they're not really friends. Consequently, prices have dropped, 2 dives now cost 40 to 45 US$. One of the 2 original clubs is Blue Diving club, in front of the Nha Trang Lodge Hotel. It's run by a French guy, Joel, who's married to a Vietnamese dive instructor. I did 2 dives with them, and their equipment and expertise were certainly good. We were only 3 divers on the boat. A "try-a-dive"trip is possible for 50 US$. Rainbow divers are certainly the most aggressive, as the have publicity almost everywhere, as well as 3 booking points. They also have a website at www.rainbowdivers.com. They charge 40 US$ for 2 dives. Their boat was full of people. Other clubs are Coco Divers, Orca Divers and Louisiana Divers.

Where to dive? A friend of mine had done 2 dives and said it was nothing special. My first dive was at Madonna's Rock. This is apparently a classical dive spot, as the other boats where there also. I wasn't impressed at all with this spot. Depth is about 15 metres, but there's only few coral and fish. The reason they go there is that they have some rock formations with some small caves and passages as well. The second dive was much better. It was at Moray Beach where corals are absolutely beautiful. It is a shallow dive (between 3 and 7 metres), so it's also possible to go snorkeling). We didn't see too much fish, except for 1 giant eal.

When to dive The diving season starts mid-January or beginning of February and ends mid-October. After that, rainy season sets in, and visiblity becomes too poor so they stop diving.

Boat trips Boat trips have become very popular mainly thanks to Mama Hanh. For 7 US$, you get a boattrips with great food, booze and joints. If you're not into joints, it's better to go on other trips like Mama Linh. Don't expect too much of the snorkeling, as these slow boats usually cannot go to Moray Beach. In the beginning of 2000, Mama Hanh spent some time in prison because of the hasjies found on he boat, but I couldn't figure out what has happened since. Some say she's free again, others say she's not.

The beach We absolutely loved the beach in Nha Trang, though some people didn't agree. When you sit there, you'll be approached by people willing to sell anything. At noon, some old ladies pass by to sell marvellous cooked seafood, but they know the prices! It is true that sometimes the water can become very dirty. This has to do with the nearby river which sometimes puts a lot of mud into the see, at other times the water is very clear. A good place to sit at the beach is the Louisiana. There are less hasslers there.

Cham towers These towers are nothing special. You can find them in the North of Nha Trang on the left side right behind the second bridge.

Interesting new trips Most people go to Hoi An from Nha Trang by bus; However, if you have more time, it is worthwhile to go inland, as you can see some interesting minorities, as well as marvellous waterfalls (100 m wide !!). Some people in Nha Trang will offer you to guide you around for 5 days on their motorbikes, visit all these places and villages, and then drop you in Hoi An. Price is about 25 US$ pp. You can have 1 passenger on 1 motorbike, but they can have several motorbikes if you want to. One guide we met was Nguyen Vinh Hung. You can reach him at tel. 813620 between 8 and 11 pm.He speaks French and also English. Another guide is Bao Le Duy. He speaks better English. His address is 52/16 Tran Phu, Vinh Nguyen, Nha Trang, Tel. (058) 590.369. This is the trip he offered for 125 US$ The Ho Chi Minh Trail tour takes you to Hoi An in 5 days via Buon Ma Thuot, Pleiku, Kontum and the Ho Chi Minh Trail. Another trip without the Ho Chi Minh trail takes you to Hoi An via My Lai (4 days). You can also make a loop to Buon Ma Thuot and visit the minorities there, ride elephants and see the waterfalls and return to Nha Trang (2 to 3 days).
Cam Ranh Bay, Vietnam, big seaport town.


\2 Hoi An

Unique historical riverside town, site of first Chinese settlement in S.Vietnam. Contemporary of Macao and Melaka. Place really floods when it rains.

Hoi An with yellow buildings spotted with blue shutters line the streets and wooden boats, which act as canvases for geometric designs in bold reds, blues and greens, glide down the river.

Hoi An exhibits some stunning examples of traditional architecture. A mix of homes, shops, places of worship, bridges, tombs and assembly halls display the varied structural styles. The old buildings of this quaint riverside town, a bustling international trading port during the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries, remained relatively untouched by the Vietnam War. Preservation efforts have limited building heights, restricted structural alterations and closed off several streets in the center of town to motor traffic, which slows the pace of life and conveys a sense of the past.

There are plenty of historical sites to visit (most charge entrance fees). A less organized wander through the old French quarter offers a more personal peek into the towns history and present. Friendly locals beckoned me into their homes, many of which are furnished with ornately decorated wooden platform beds, floor to ceiling armoires and carved tables. Building facades in blocks of Mediterranean blues, greens and yellows inject the streets with color and dimension. Above the doorways of many homes, watchful eyes, round stamp-like yin and yang symbols, protect the residents from harm. Many homeowners set up convenience stores, which extend from their living rooms onto the adjacent sidewalk. Carts of ice cream and red boxes of detergent add to the colorful mix.

Shoppers will find nirvana in Hoi An. Tailors line the main streets and can stitch just about anything in a matter of hours. Each shop is equipped with stacks of magazines and catalogues to offer style inspirations. Shelves of fabric provide a dizzying array of textures and colors from which to choose. Tailors will copy just about anything, repeating the phrase: "I know, I know," after every instruction you give. They may say they understand, but dont be shy to ask for alterations. Prices are cheap (pants US $6-12, dresses US $8-15 and suits US $20-30), but most agree that Hoi An offers a quick fix; diehard shoppers should wait for Hanoi, where the quality of fabric and sewing is higher.

Besides tailor made clothing, Hoi An boasts beautiful football-shaped lanterns, which I havent seen in any other part of the county. In saturated blues, reds and purples, the lamps cast a moody aura reminiscent of the glow from lava lamps. There is also a booming gallery scene, which features ink drawings and oil paintings by local artists.

If youre not interested in material objects, invest in food. I ate well in Hoi An. Cao lau, a bowl of room temperature, doughy noodles tossed with crunchy, sesame rice paper bits, bean sprouts, greens and a choice of meat or tofu, is the local specialty. It has a subtle hint of coconut, though nothing too clawingly sweet. Another item found on just about every menu is banh trung, translucent spring rolls. Head to the market for a cheap (about US $0.10 each) and delicious introduction to these satisfying rice pockets fill with veggies and shrimp or other meats. And, though I hate to parrot the Lonely Planet, I followed its recommendation and tried the fish wrapped in banana leaf at the Hong Phuc Restaurant. It truly was sublime. The delicate white flesh burst with the flavors of fresh herbs suspended in a tangy lime sauce. Nearly all of the other diners opted for the same dish, a sign of the Bibles power.

I took a break from shopping and eating one sunny afternoon and tromped out to a Japanese tomb, which is encased by a lush, green rice field a few kilometers outside of the center of town. A main road splits into several small, dirt branches, one of which leads to the tomb. Were it not for the insistent help of two schoolboys on bikes, Im not sure I would have ever found my way. They kindly escorted me, chatting all the way. The walk past homes and through the rich, green setting is much more spectacular than the actual tomb, that of a Japanese merchant who died in 1647.

But, all was not an idyllic walk through the countryside. As we approached the tomb, the smaller of the boys started to lag behind. His mothers sick, explained his friend, and he has no money and is very thirsty. They set a trap and I marched in. They generously extended the tour to see a nearby pagoda, Chuch Thanh, a serene stop, set within a pristine garden and lavishly decorated statues. When we left, the two scouts found a place for us to refresh with a cool drink. Grateful for their help, I gladly offered to treat. The ailing child at this point looked wilted. But, he didnt open his juice. Instead, he said, he would save it for his mom in the hospital. Well, the sap I am wouldnt stand for this, so I bought another round. The cost of the four juices and my water amounted to four times what it should have, but both the boys and the storeowners looked positively perplexed when I protested. Not wanting to further spoil a pleasant walk with a dispute, I paid and moved on. Fellow travels reported that they experienced a similar situation the next day.

If wandering the streets tires you, take a day trip to explore My Son, China Beach and Marble Mountains, all nearby excursions.

My Son - Vietnams most important Cham site, is set in a valley cut out of green mountains located about an hour bus ride from Hoi An. The site served as the political capital of Champa, a kingdom that flourished in Vietnam from the 2nd to the 15th centuries. (The entrance ticket, roughly US $4, covers the cost of a jeep transport to and from the site from the ticket booth, though no one ever explains this. The walk, though short, about 2 kilometers, is exposed and hot. I recommend the four-wheel option.) Archeologists have divided the site into 10 main groups, which are clustered within a short walk of one another. The vine-like ornamentation carved into the exterior walls, the masterful brickwork and the decorative sculptures provide examples of the typical Cham style. The Cham museum in Danang houses many of the artifacts recovered from the area.

Fighting in the American War devastated the region. VC guerrillas used the site as a base, which the Americans bombed. Vietnamese authorities are trying to restore the remaining sites. The area surrounding My Son was extensively mined and today, unsuspecting grazing cows are helping to clear remaining hazards. Stick to the path.

Marble Mountains and China Beach Located about 30 minutes by car from Hoi An in the direction of Danang, the Marble Mountains and China Beach provide an excursion that blends the outdoors with the spiritual. The mountains consist of five marble hills, each said to represent one of the five elements of the universe: water, wood, fire, metal or gold and earth. For US $4 you can climb the largest of the mountains, Thuy Son, to visit pagodas and explore a number of natural caves, which house Buddhist sanctuaries. The Champas used the caves as Hindu shrines. During the Vietnam War, the VC set up hospitals in the nooks carved out of the marble. Small chimneys, which extend to the sky, catch and funnel beams of light like Darth Vaders sword. The affect is supernatural. Statues, altars and shrines are set within many of the stone chambers. Through one of the openings you can scramble up a rocky path to heaven, the caves name. The top provides expansive views of the countryside and the South China Sea.

The white, wide sand of China Beach extends many kilometers north and south of the Marble Mountains.

Now a seaside escape for both domestic and foreign tourists, US soldiers were airlifted to this sandy stretch for a break from fighting during the Vietnam War. A dangerous undertow makes swimming somewhat treacherous, though the water is divine. The tumultuous waters create good surfing conditions, and in 1992 local Vietnamese founded the Danang Surfers Club. Abigail Walch, VASC

HOI AN is a beautiful old city which is nearly undamaged from the wars. Once called Faifo, it was the most important port of Vietnam around the time of Macau's peak. Due to the monsoons, many trading vessels (Chinese, Thai, Dutch, Portuguese and even Japanese) had to stop for a while. Coming from the north, the Chinese and Japanese sailed south in spring, and had to wait for the autumn monsoon to return. The Thai, the Dutch and the Portuguese used the opposite pattern to sail. During the long time of waiting, sometimes four months, they would rent lodgings and trading houses, preferably on the waterfront. Some even went as far as to stay year-round to take full advantage of the trade with the Vietnamese.

There are many hotels and mini-hotels in Hoi An. If you arrive by bus, you'll be hassled by kids that know exactly what hotels have vacancies and how much these hotels are. They will guide you to a hotel of your choice.

The Hoi An Hotel at 6 Tran Hung Dao Street has dormitories for USD 3. There are other rooms starting at USD 10. However, there are travellers who recomend looking for other hotels, since the staff is not very helpful. It is the biggest hotel in town.

Another one is the Thanh Binh, with nice clean rooms with fan and bath for USD 8 and 10. Unfortunately, the staff could drive you crazy. They were terribly notorious, always screaming at you telling you how beautiful you looked, and then trying to sell you a tour, a transport somewhere or a tailor.

The Hai Yen Hotel, at 22a Cua Dai, opened in May 1997, on Nguyen Duy Hieu Street, has nice, clean doubles with air-conditioning for USD 15. There are also smaller rooms with fan, starting from USD 8. (These prices are after bargaining, regular prices are USD 18 to 20.)

Close to the market, at 73 Phan Boi Chan Street, is the Huy Hoang Hotel. It is directly at the river and has a terrace overlooking the river. Doubles cost USD 12 to 15, including breakfast.

The Thien Trung Hotel at 63 Phan Dinh Phung has large rooms with aircon and hot water for USD 18. Rooms without aircon are USD 15.

Ther Sea Star Hotel is located at Nguyen Duy Hieu Street.

Emergency: Hosp opp P.O. on Tran Hung Dao St.

Many merchants bought houses to conduct trading activities all year round. The old houses one can visit are beautiful. There are quite a few open to the (paying) public. On the left side of the market there are some silk shops. They only sell the silk, but it is possible to let them tailor a shirt, a dress, trousers, or whatever you wish for you. Prices are USD 2.5 - 4 per meter of silk, to tailor a silk shirt costs around USD 4.5 (including the buttons which sell for USD 1!).

(John) I would suggest renting a bicycle in Hoi An and going on one of the small dirt roads into the nearby villages and around the rice fields. There is a very nice beach nearby that is an easy 5 km bicycle ride away.

There is a ticket for VND 50'000 that includes admission to "1 of 3 museums, 1 of 3 Assembly Halls, 1 of 4 Old Houses and either the Japanese Bridge or Quan Cong's Temple". Note: The Japanese Bridge included on the list is accessible for free.

Especially recommended is the Tran Family Temple, at the junction of Le Loi and Phan Chu Trinh. The family is very welcoming and very knowledgeable about the function and history of the temple.

Outside of Hoi An, there are many Japanese tombs. Rent a bicycle or a motorbike to get to them. On the way you will meet dozens of children eager to direct you to the tombs. Of course, they expect some money for that service.

There are many impressive dikes around Hoi An.

A good trip is cycling through the rice paddies down to the beach. You can rent bicylces for VND 5000.

Eating: Very popular among tourists is the Ly Cafeteria 22 at 22 Nguyen Hue Street.

Very famous for its food, especially its seafood, is the Cafe des Amis at 52 Bach Dang St. For VND 40'000 you get a menu with 5 diff dishes. If you eat there for the third time you will be considered a special guest, and get a whole duck for two persons.

The nicest cafe in all Vietnam, in our opinion, was Dzu Dzi, opposite to Thanh Binh on 12 Le Loi St. It was a family business with friendly service and good food. The kind of place where you can sit all day sipping lemon juice and banana shakes, watching people, writing postcards and chatting to the owners.

The Lac Vien Rest on Phan Chu Trinh Street is recommended for the barbeque beef and the cuttlefish and shrimp soup.

A good place is Jean's Cafe and Restaurant at 48 Phan Dinh Phung Street.

Warning: We rented bicycles in Hoi An, and went to the beach. Highly recommended, but do NOT rent a chair or have lunch at the first place to the left as you get down on the beach! They ripped us off. We orded lunch from their menu without asking for the price. Stupid, you might say, and sure it was, but after several weeks in Vietnam we were tired of being paranoid all the time. We ordered grilled prawns and they charged 9000 dong (almost one dollar) for EACH prawn! One serving of squid cost 50000 dong (4$50). We argued with the owner, of course, and after a while, he gave us some of the money back. The little girl waitress came after us later, and said she felt bad about it. Of course, she didn't get any of the money.

Shopping: Hoi An is very famous for its silk. The place to look for silk sellers is the market. They will of course tailor silk to anything you like.

Viet Nam: Hoi An Jun 30, 2000 BY CARL DUNCAN HOI AN riverside market, on the wharf along Bach Dong Street, is pure traditional Vietnam. Women in loose pantaloons and conical straw hats squat next to bamboo baskets displaying all manner of colorful produce. Latecomers from nearby hamlets approach the quay in narrow sampans, gracefully dipping their quill-shaped oars. Others from outer islands arrive in larger boats stacked with produce and bicycles. The market becomes a bobbing sea of hats.

The bustle has a distinct small-town, neighborly feel. One friend offers another some flowers. Vendors chat and laugh among themselves or play a hand of cards. More than once my travel partner Maria and I see a departing boat, its diesel quietly ticking under hand-hewn decks, swing back around to pick up someone beckoning good-naturedly from the wharf. Hoi An sits on the north bank of the Thu Bon River on Vietnam's central coast, just south of Da Nang. The shallow Doi estuary and offshore islands protect it from storms off the South China Sea. Away from the highway and out of the mainstream, Hoi An retains its traditional trading port character, intact from the days when the Vietnamese first opened their world to foreigners. There are more than 800 historically significant structures in the city, but Hoi An is not just beautiful buildings. It's a community of people. Some of the families here have been neighbors for 400 years. Vietnam tourist publications refer to the old town section as "a living museum." As Vietnam liberalizes its trade and tourism industries, Hoi An is regaining the glow of its golden years. Owners of lovely 17th and 18th century houses are opening restaurants and small hotels. Artists, finding both inspiring images and a steady market, have opened galleries. The visitor to Hoi An today will find all of the amenities he or she needs, as well as a cultural authenticity and sincere welcome that seem from another age. "Hoi An is nearly perfect because the war never got here," says Tang Thu, who owns an art gallery in the old town. "Up in Da Nang, everything was bombed and broken." It's only a US$20 taxi fare from the airport in Da Nang to Hoi An. However, the potholed road turns the 20 miles into a dusty hour's drive. Appropriately enough, the pavement smooths out at the Hoi An signpost. For a town of 75,000, Hoi An has a surprisingly small, quiet feel, especially after our days vacationing in Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon), where we were told of the beauties of Hoi An and counseled that it retains all the charms of a traditional Vietnamese town. We get out at the end of Le Loi Street, four blocks from the waterfront. No cars are allowed in the old riverside section. We peer into a couple of small hotels within a few feet of each other and settle on the Thuy Duong. One hundred dollars gets us a week in their choicest corner room. It's spacious and spotless, with a modern bath and mahogany furniture. Though it has an air conditioner, the February weather is too delightful. We open the casement windows, head downstairs and (ravenously hungry) saunter down Le Loi to the waterfront. The street is lined with silk and cotton tailors, antique shops, art galleries, historic homes and garden courtyards behind low gabled walls.

The tiles of the roofs, green with moss, overlap and connect with those of their neighbors. Many of the old stucco walls, stained with algae and draped in bougainvillea, are painted in pastels. Hoi An is alive in tropical colors. Thanh Restaurant, lemon yellow and framed with flowers, sits a few feet off the water. The building is centuries old. Our carved hardwood table faces the quay. Lacquered pillars support round beams, hardwood strapping and heavy tile. Gentle Vietnamese music plays from somewhere. No cars. No roaring motorcycles. No pedicabs. Only slippered feet, hats and bicycles. No yachts or fiberglass boats in the harbor. Only sampans, small and not so small. Nothing spoils that delicious sensation of sitting comfortably ensconced on the far side of the world in a simpler, slower century. Prices on the menu (written in English, French and Vietnamese) are from another era too. The most expensive item is US$3. Most are under US$1.50. Hoi An's cuisine is a blend of the stir-fry and noodles of the north and the spicier dishes of the south. We order a crepe filled with shredded duck, shrimp and spices; rice paper wrapped shrimp spring rolls with chile-spiced peanut sauce; stir-fried vegetables and two bowls of cao lau.

A Hoi An specialty, cao lau is a steaming bowl of flat, yellow noodles in a broth flavored with cilantro, ginger, anise, basil and mint. It has crisp bean sprouts and croutons and is topped with slices of pork or, optionally, chicken or duck. Served with edible rice paper, it's a delightful dish any time of day. With two large BGI beers (a good brew from Da Nang) the bill is just US$10. Hoi An is such a small place, a map is hardly necessary. One good idea, however, is the US$5 Old Town ticket (available at the Hoi An Hotel). Proceeds help to preserve the town's historic structures. The ticket gets you into a selection of museums, Chinese assembly halls, wealthy merchant houses and the 1653 Quang Cong Temple, one of 20 Chinese temples in Hoi An. Up from the riverside market, past the silk and cotton tailors and through the bamboo merchants, is the Museum of History and Culture. Amid artifacts, maps and archive photos -- all with English explanations -- Hoi An's colorful past becomes obvious. Between the 2nd and 10th century, Hoi An was the principal port of the seafaring Champa kingdom, a once-powerful society that embraced Indian culture and celebrated it through sculpture. Champa, encompassing most of southern Vietnam, survived for more than 1,000 years, withstanding attacks by the Chinese, Vietnamese, Khmers and Mongols. In the 15th century, the Vietnamese from the north pushed the Chams south and opened the port to foreign traders. Japanese, Chinese and Portuguese merchants had permanent settlements here by the early 1500s. When the Ming Dynasty was overthrown in 1644, many Chinese Mandarins expatriated to Hoi An. They built beautiful assembly halls and harbor-side homes. For the next 200 years, Hoi An (then known as Faifo) flourished. Prosperous merchants built shops, bridges and temples. Mixing Chinese, Japanese and Portuguese elements, they created Hoi An's unique architectural style. In a land of bamboo and thatch, they built permanently with brick, tile and hardwood. During the 17th and 18th centuries, this was the most important port for southern Vietnam. Giant four-masted junks and majestic square riggers plying the China-India trade route regularly called at Hoi An. Here they anchored, sometimes for months, waiting for the monsoons to shift homeward again. When the harbor silted up in the 1800s, a new port was built on the Han River at Da Nang. Time came to a halt in Hoi An, and the world passed it by. There's much more to see in Hoi An than the government-run entries on the Old Town ticket. Some residents of the privately restored houses invite you in for a tour and then let you browse their curio shops. Everywhere we find people with a surprisingly innocent sense of hospitality. The hand-crafted goods Hoi An was famous for in her glory days -- cottons, silks, ceramics and fine carpentry -- are still made and sold here. Nearly every shop we pass has Hoi An ceramics. Characteristically, these are white with cobalt blue designs. We end up buying a commonly seen duck-shaped soy sauce dispenser (US$5). Antique shops sell 17th- and 18th-century Hoi An ceramics, often found preserved in the silt of the harbor. For a small tropical port that seems to live in a time capsule, the business level can be quite sophisticated.

Kim Bong Traditional Carpentry (at 108 Nguyen Thai Hoc Street) makes lovely hardwood boxes, furniture and cabinets. A matching set of carved mahogany furniture (chair US$200, couch US$250 and table US$200) looks tempting. But it's heavy, nearly immovable. How would you get it home? The saleswoman, statuesque in long black braids and a white long-paneled, traditional blouse, answers without hesitation: "It will cost US$146 to truck to Saigon and clear customs. And US$120 to ship across the Pacific. We take care of everything. It takes 30 days to the West Coast." Only a block away, Hoi An's famous covered Japanese Bridge spans a small canal. Dating from 1593, the wood and stone bridge connects the old Japanese and Chinese trading communities. Hoang Diep owns a house and silk shop next to the bridge. We browse the fine display of kimonos (US$14), scarves (US$5) and blouses (US$7). All are in soft silk and hand painted with flower or bamboo designs. Diep has an interesting sort of look to him and I strike up a conversation. He was once a journalist, he says, and because of his political views spent 13 years in prison between 1975 and 1988. The government also confiscated his house. "When I got out, I sought refugee status in many countries, including Australia and the U.S. But no one accepted me." In 1991, as a result of liberalizing government reforms, his Hoi An house was returned. With the ongoing lifting of trade and travel restrictions, tourism is booming.

The original sacred capital of the Chams until AD 980, My Son sits in a hollow of green hills up the Thu Bon River, an hour's drive west of Hoi An. Footpaths through pasture and forest connect about two dozen brick towers in varying stages of preservation.

Typically Indian in structure, the towers are unique for what was put inside. Pedestal altars adorned with reliefs once supported free-standing stone statues, some of them life-size.

Tourists have fueled Hoi An's latest trade commodity: art. On Tran Phu Street, which runs through the heart of the old town, oil paintings spill out of half the houses along the street. Tang Ngoc Thu opened his art gallery at 109 Tran Phu six years ago.

On our last day, we have an early dinner at the floating restaurant, Han Huyen, not far from the Japanese Bridge. While I enjoy noodles and beef, Maria gamely samples the chao tom: spicy ground shrimp wrapped around stalks of sugar cane and grilled. It burns until she has tears in her eyes. The waitress hurries over. "So sorry!" she says, and rushes off for a glass of cold water.

Hoi An Hotel, 6 Tran Hung Dao St. tel 011-84-510-861-445, It has 100 rooms, pool and satellite TV. Doubles from about US$40.

Huy Hoang Mini Hotel, 73 Phan Boi Chau St.; tel. 011-84-51-862-211. Restaurant/bar on the river. Assorted quality rooms from US$10 to US$35.

Thuy Duong I Hotel, 11 Le Loi St.; tel. 011-84-51-861-574, Doubles from about US$15.

Vinh Hung private mini hotel, 143 Tran Phu St.; tel. 011-84-51-861-621, Lovely old wooden Hoi An house recently converted to a small hotel. Some rooms like a movie set with antique beds, rattan couches, traditional balconies. Doubles from about US$45.

Furama Resort Danang, 68 No Xuan Huong St., China Beach, Danang; tel 011-84-511-847-333, Vnam's only five-star luxury intl resort. Rates start at US$140 per night for a double.
 vietnamtourism.com

Hi An info 10/2000:  Most people will agree that Hoi An is one of the most beautiful and relaxed places to visit, so don't miss it.

Getting there By plane Hoi An doesn't have its own airport, but most people fly to Danang (regular flights from Saigon, Nha Trang, Hanoi). From Danang airport, most people take a taxi at a fieed rate of 10 US$. It is usually possible to find other tourists to share a taxi. The ride to Hoi An takes 45 minutes.

By train This is another good and comfortable option. You can take the night train from Nha Trang to Danang and from there take a taxi.

By bus If you're on a budget, this is probably what you'll do. However, the night bus both from Dalat or from Nha Trang is extremely uncomfortable, because the road is very bumpy, so don't expect to sleep much. If coming from Hue, the bus is probably the only option. To Hoi An (140 km, 6 hrs) with stops at Lang Co beach, Hai van Pass, Danang (Cham museum, marble mountains or china beach). Price : 3 US$

Accommodation Plenty of small hotels in Hoi An. Until recently, the only upper-class accommodation was the state-run Hoi An Hotel. It is at walking distance from the old town, and you can describe it as a 3-star hotel. The building is 30 to 40 years old and was used by the Americans to accommodate their soldiers during a holiday. This means that the rooms look a bit old, but they have everything you need like AC, TV, fridge, bathroom etc... They have a buffet breakfast, and when the weather is fine you can sit outside. The big plus of this hotel is that it has a nice swimming pool (only few hotels have this in Hoi An). It's also centrally located near the historical center of Hoi An. Prices are around 40 to 60 US$ for a double including breakfast. You can make reservations at hoianhotel@dng.vnn.vn. Since 2000, however, 2 new luxury hotels have opened, and a third one (Victoria) will open in 2001. My personal favourite is the Hoi An Riverside resort. It is at 3 km from the old town in the direction of the beach right next to the river. This is a small scale 4-star resort, but service is really in the perfection. The rooms are absolutely marvellous, we especially liked the Japanese style room, but they also have a "Vietnamese style" room. They have a beautiful pool set in a nice garden amidst the bungalow rooms. We just had dinner there, and this was quite good. They have a shuttle bus 5 times a day. Normal price is 120 US$ for a double, but they gave 50% discount when we were there (10/2000). More info at hoianriver@dng.vnn.vn. They also have their own website at www.hoianriverresort.com

Another new hotel is the state-run Hoi An Beach Resort. They try to compete with the riverside resort, and they are indeed quite good, but they miss a bit the subtle class of the former. Everything is much bigger, and they used a bit too much concrete. Their location is splendid between the river and the beach. In the morning, you will see fishermen passing with their boat on the river. Price is 60 to 80 US$.

What to do? Shopping It's strange to put this on top of the "what to do"-list, but this is actually what you'll probably do. Hoi An is indeed well known for their shops, especially clothing shops. It is simply incredible what they can make at what prices. Most shops have the latest fashion catalogues, and you simply choose, and they make it for you. Examples of prices are 40 US$ for a Cashmere suit, 8 US$ for trousers etc.... We went at Le Loi 17 and can recommend them. Their motto is "if you don't like, you don't buy", and this proved to be correct. My girlfriend had ordered trousers , but finally she didn't like the model, so we didn't have to take it. I must say however we bought plenty of other things. You'll find plenty of other souvenir shops, especially painting shops and some other things. Don't miss the shop at Le Loi 41. Ask to have a look at their silk production. You'll see every step of the process from cocoon to the actual making of silk. Most of these things are on the first floor, but they will be happy to show you around.

The town Hoi An is a historical town which used to be an important harbour a couple of 100 years ago. You'll find different historical buildings. To visit them, you'll need to buy a card for 50.000 VND which gives you entrance to 5 places. BTW, you can also visit the shrine in the Japanese bridge, but if you just look inside, you've also seen it, there's not much to see really. Also the museum is not too good. However, the Chinese house across the Japanese bridge is worth a visit.

Trips The classical trip from Hoi An is to go to My Son. This is a Cham ruin site about 60 km from Hoi An. Easiest way is to book a trip starting at 8 am with a return around 2 pm. Price is 2,5 $. However, if you want to have the place for yourself, you'll need to rent a motorbike with driver for 7 US$, or else a taxi for 15 US$. Note however you cannot be there at sunrise, the site only opens at 6.30 am. The busride takes a bit less then 2 hours. Then you have to buy your ticket (60.000 VND) which includes entrance and a short jeepride. Most people (like me) are not really impressed with this site, so you might give it a miss. You'll see only a few small buildings scattered through the jungle. However, I can imagine that purely historically, it is an important site, but visually it is not.

At the Vinh Hung Hotel you can book some more original trips like: Going there by bus, and coming back by boat, however, I was glad not to be on the boat because it was terribly hot. 7 US$ pp. They also have a trip which first visits a few villages, among which silk making villages, bronze making villages etc... Then you go to My Son. 7 US$ pp, minimum 7 persons for this trip. They also have an eco-bike excursion cycling along the river to the beach, and coming back by boat.

You can also rent a bike yourself and cycle to the beach. The beach is OK, but again plenty of people trying to sell you anything. You can also cycle along the river towards the fishing village.

Restaurants It's difficult to find a bad restaurant in Hoi an, you'll find the best food in Vietnam here.

Cafe des Amis: set along the river near the market. This is a "world famous" place serving very good food. They actually give a set menu, and you have the choice between a seafood or a vegetarian menu, price is 40.000 VND. The owner will come in the restaurant and explain dishes, and in the mean time he will show you his book with recommendations from visitors, as well as articles about his restaurants. Recommended. Cafe Can is also very good; It's also along the river, and we also had a set seafood menu for 40.000 VND. You can also follow cooking lessons. This means you'll get the same seafood menu for 50.000 VND. Also recommended. The floating restaurant near the Japanese bridge also has excellent food. We ordered plenty of dishes there (I think about 8) and paid about 160.000 VND for the 2 of us including everything. The Thanh Old House restaurant is also along the river and equally good. The restaurant looks like an old Chinese house and is very cosy.

Laundry A lot of places willing to do your laundry. Normal price is about 7000 VND for 1 kilo. For those staying at the Hoi An Hotel, it's much cheaper to just cross the street. However, you have to bargain, because the lady has the pricelist of the Hoi An Hotel, and she offers a 50% discount, but this is still 20.000 VND per kilo.

Getting away Going to Hue, most people take the bus: Either you take a fast bus at 8 am, and this will take about 3 hours. They stop only very shortly in Lang Co Beach. Either you take a longer bustrip of 6 hours. You will leave around 8 am, then make stops at Marble mountains (45 minutes), Cham museum Danang (20 minutes), Hai Van Pass (10 minutes) and Lang Co beach for lunch (45 minutes). You arrive around 2 pm. Price is 2,5 US$. There is also a night bus leaving at 11 pm, but I suppose you arrive very early in Hue.

You can also take the train from Danang to Hue, and apparently this is said to be a marvellous trip. You can take a taxi to Danang airport for 10 US$.


\3 Hue

658km S of Hanoi The most beautiful city in Vietnam, Hu was the country's capital from 1802 to 1945, and has long been a major cultural, religious and educational centre.

The remains of the huge, moated Citadel, constructed by the Emperor Gia Long from 1804, contain many interesting sights, such as the Nine Holy Cannons, the Imperial Enclosure, the Palace of Supreme Harmony and the Halls of the Mandarins. Sadly, the intriguing Purple Forbidden City was largely destroyed during the Vietnam War. About 15km south of Hu are the Royal Tombs. Hu has many other places of religious and dynastic importance, and some good museums.

If you want to get out of the city for a swim, head 13km north-east to Thuan An Beach, where there's a lagoon, a hotel and the possibility of sampan trips up the Perfume River. Vehicles from Hu's Dong Ba bus station run here.

There's a range of lodging in Hue to suit most budgets, and some good restaurants. Hu has a long tradition of vegetarian food, which is prepared at pagodas for the monks. Stalls in the markets serve vegetarian food on the 1st and the 15th days of the lunar month, and there are several restaurants serving it all the time.

Hue is about 700km from Hanoi and 1100km from Saigon. The Reunification Express train running between those cities stops here, and there are frequent flights and buses to both cities.

HUE was the national capital from 1802 to 1945. 13 emperors of the Nguyen dynasty lived in the forbidden city.

City is 8mi inland and bisected by the Perfume River. NB: Stay away from COM HEN made with mussels from the river. The citadel took 30 years to complete in 1835 with 300 palaces, temples, and tombs. The city has five univ. The French quarter on the south bank.

The main attraction, the Imperial City is mostly bombe  flat (one of the haviest battles of the American War took place in Hue during the Tet Offensive in 68). The few remaining buildings (five if I remember correctly) all have been converted to souvenir shops. And all of this for USD 5.

A little outside of the city are several old tombs from former emperors. The admission costs USD 5 each! As an alternative try to walk around the tomb to find any open gates where nobody charges admission, but this will not always work. Since all of them look similar, it is not worth to visit all of them, one or two will suffice. The nicer tombs are the Tomb of Minh Mang and Tu Duc Tomb. The Thieu Tri tomb has no walls around it, so it can be visited for free.

Most hotels offer beautiful boat trips to the tombs for USD 5. This boat trip is often combined with the Thien Mu Pagoda (also known as Linh Mu Pagoda). Some cafes offer boat tours that take you to Thien Mu Pagoda, one temple and three tombs, and even provide lunch for USD 3. Try to be at the pagoda at sunset.

(Michael) The Minh Mang tomb is poorly preserved, but the setting is beautiful. Tu Duc is in better shape, but the layout is not as nice. It is a long, long walk from the river to Tu Duc. Thien Mu is worth it if just to see the famous car (see LP).

(John) Hue has brought in the new year (95) with raising their prices on all their attractions from an expensive $3.50 to an outrageous $5.00 per foreigner. The local prices are $0.50. The tombs are really not that great, A fair price is $1-2 to see them. I would visit one tomb only since many of them are very similar. At the Imperial City I joined two other people to hire a guide for $3. His English was excellent and the guide was well worth it.

(John) The tombs are on the outskirts of town and are reachable by boat for $4/person if organized through the Morin. A boat can be hired privately for $12. The tombs can also be reached by bicycle. Upon visiting one of the tombs I was charged 0.50 each way to cross a river by boat with my bicycle.

(Michael) To get across the river to the Dong Ba market, check for private boats at the Huong Giang end of the Dap Da bridge and river taxis at the other end. Be sure to negotiate the price before getting on the boat. Tourist price seems to be about a dollar to get across the river.

(Michael) Cruises both directions on the Perfume River are well worth it. We engaged a 'dragon boat' for $12 a day. One day we went out to Thuan An beach for the day. Another day we went the other way to visit a few tombs. Both trips were very nice and much enjoyed by my daughter. Negotate directly with the boat owner for the best price. Again, try getting a boat near the Dap Da bridge, or just down the river from the floating rest.

The Hon Chen temple costs VND 20000.

There are bicycles for rent at VND 6000 - 7000.

Lodging - Hue has a number of hotels and mini-hotels. The Hung Vuong Hotel, 62 Hung Vuong Street offers excellent value for the price. A double room with TV, aircon, hot water and even with breakfast included is only USD 10!

Morin Hotel: A good backpacker hangout, with rooms from USD 8 to USD 20. This hotel is still under restauration, but there are still some rooms available. When it will open fully again it will probably be much more pleasant, but also more expensive.

(Doug) You hear a lot about the Morin Hotel in Hue, both good and bad. It's probably the most popular, or at least well-know traveller's hotel in Hue. I have never stayed there, but I did have a cuppa cafe sua in the court yard cafe last month. The place has a lot of history but something that most travellers don't know is that the Morin and the streets and buildings around it, were the setting for some dramatic events during the battle for Hue city in the communist Tet Offensive in February 1968. At the time, the Morin housed Hue University. Just down and across the street (away from the river) is a walled complex that is currently a police or military site. In 1968 this complex was the MACV (Military Assisstance Command Vietnam) compound, a US military command center. That building was the only significant US position in Hue that was not captured by the communists in the Tet Offensive. Actually there were not many US troops inside Hue at all prior to 68. The MACV compound was mostly an adminstrative site. But, with reinforcements from Phu Bai just down the highway, it did become the command centre for the recapture of Hue. One of the first buildings recaptured from the communists was Hue University (The Morin Hotel). US troops fought a running battle for the Morin, clearing the building room by room, mostly by tossing hand grenades. Once the Morin was in US hands, motars were set up in the courtyard, and it became a command post supporting attacks against other buildings to the west, such as the heavily fortified Treasury building (now a VietCom Bank). The book "Fire in the Streets" by Eric Hammel, details the battle for Hue, and includes enough detail, maps and photos to allow you to track the progress of the conflict, street by street and building by building. It's not for everyone but reading it can add a new dimension to your visit to the city (cheaper than a visit to the tombs), and may add a poignant edge to your stay at the Morin.

I had a look at Le Loi Hotel, near the train station on the street next to the Perfume river. Since I didn't stay there, I cannot really say much, but it certainly did look ok. Many people actually liked the place better than Morin, others said to forget it. Rooms are USD 8 to 40.

The Century Riverside Hotel at 49 Le Loi Street has standard rooms for USD 40. Tel 823390, 823391, Fax 823394, 823399.

The Kinh Do Hotel at 1 Nguyen Thai Hoc Street has rooms ranging from USD 25 to 45. Tel 824952.

The Thai Binh Hotel is nice with rooms for USD 6 or 7.

The Dong Loi on Pham Ngu Lao just off Le Loi Street (opposite the Century Riverside Hotel) offers clean rooms with private bath for USD 10. Their restaurant cannot be recommended, though.

The Vong Canh has air-conditioned doubles with bath that can be bargained down to USD 15 (some say, even less.)

The Khach San Hoa Sen (Lotus Hotel) at 33 Rue Dinh Cong Trang (near the citadel) has clean rooms with aircon, television and hot water. They charge between USD 15 to 40. There is also a restaurant, but you should let them know in advance if you plan to eat there. Tel 825997, Fax 825996.

The Thanh Loi Hotel is very nice. A clean four bed room with a/c goes for VND 200'000.

(Michael) We ended up at the Binh Minh hotel at 12 Nguyen Tri Phuong St. It was ok at USD 40 for a huge room with air con, fridge, TV (not satellite), a big bath, breakfast and a double bed and a single bed. However, at night, the air con kept tripping the circuit breaker whenever the compressor came on, and I was up most of the night resetting the breaker.

The Huang Giang Hotel was the MACV BOQ in 1968. Bullet holes can still be seen in the glass in the stairway on the Western side of the old building. (Michael) So, we moved out and into the Huan Giang Hotel on the river. This cost USD 80 for a huge room with satellite TV, a good buffet breakfast and a two bed room. The river front restaurant at the Huang Giang is (confirming LP) excellent and a very good value. The sunset view is great. The hotel itself fills up every night with groups of French tourists doing Vietnam in a week or some such thing.

Eating - The Ang Tae just next to the Imperial City has a garden.

(Michael) The Song Huong floating restaurant is more expensive and not as good as the Huan Giang. Plus, they always practice the 'cold towel' rip-off. If you eat there, have the bill read to you and make sure you are not paying for food, drinks or towells that you didn't use.

(Michael) A nice restaurant near the Citadel: Royal City Restaurant (Quoc Huy), 43 Dinh Cong Trang St, near Hien Nohn gate.

Hien's Canteen just opposite the Dong Loi Hotel is a friendly place, perfect for breakfast or a quick snack.

The Lac Thanh at 6 Dinh Tien Hoang Street is packed with tourists. While it used to be good, the success with all the tourists caused the prices to rise and the quality to drop. Not recommended anymore.

In the Tinh Gia Vien at Le Thanh Ton, Madame Ha prepares unforgettable dishes in a bonsai garden. Prices for a menu are USD 7 to 8. Phone in the morning to reserve for the evening. Tel 822243.

A nice place to sip che (tea) is between 13 and 15 Hung Vuong. Only 10m from the main street, this tea-house is very popular with Hanoi's youth.

There are several cafes on the east bank of the Pearl River. The best seem to be Le Loi 3 and Xuan Trang, 14 Hung Vuong ("Should be in the Lonely Planet" on the illuminated sign!)

Shopping There are silk paintings for less than USD 1.

Hue lies at the center of Vietnam. The city suffered a lot during the TET-offensive in 1968. The imperial city and especially the tombes are worth a visit. Hue is divided in two parts by the Perfume river. The southern part holds the hotels and almost all restaurants. Two important streets are Le Loi along the river and Hung Vuong. The old city part (north) is surrounded by the citadel and holds the imperial city. The DMZ-zone is not far away and can be visited on a daytrip.

Getting there and away Train Trainstation close to the Buu Thi Xuan street. The reunification express Hanoi-HCMC stops here.

Plane Phu bai airport (14 km south of Hue) : There is a counter where you can buy a ticket for a bus to the citycenter. Ticket: 25.000 VND (if you want to get of on a specific place), 15.000 VND (at the airline booking office)

Vietnam airlines booking office in Hue, Nghuyen Tri Phuong 07b, tel. 824-709, fax. 822-470

Bus Local buses To the South (Danang-Nha Trang-HCMC) at the An Cuu station. To the North (Dong Hoi-Vinh-Hanoi) at the An Hoa station.

Tourist bus Booking office (about 5 Sinh Cafs in town) : Sinh caf, Hung Vuong 8, Hue Schedule : To Ninh Binh (560 km, 14 hrs) with stop at Dong Ha. Departure at 18h00, price : ? US$ To Hoi An (140 km, 6 hrs) with stops at Lang Co beach, Hai van Pass, Danang (cham museum, marble mountains or china beach). Departure at 8h00, price : 3 US$

Getting around Cyclo's are very popular, but don't pay more then 5000 VND for a regular ride (10/2000).

Accommodation There are 3 top hotels in town: In my point of view (and I checked all 3 of them) the Century River (Le Loi 49, tel. 823-390, fax. 823-394) is the best, although I read some other people don't agree. Its location is superb along the river, right where the boats congregate on the river. They have great views from the rooms, the restaurant and the swimming pool. They have a good swimming pool and tennis court. Rooms are good with AC, fridge, TV, telephone. Normal price is 70 US$ for the cheapest room, 80 $ for a river view room and 100 $ for deluxe rooms. discounts of 30 % are given (10/2000). Nextdoor is the Huong Giang Hotel (Perfume river hotel)(Le Loi 51, tel. 822-122, fax. 823-102). The setting is equally good along the river.The hotel was built in 1960 and isshowing its age, although they have a new wing next to the swimming pool.Cheapest rooms go for 35 US$ with AC, TV, fridge. More expensive rooms are 45 US$ for garden view and 55 $ for river view. I don't think there was much difference between the rooms, except that the more expensive rooms have a nicer corridor with nicely carved doors of the rooms. The Saigon Morin, ( Le Loi 30, Tel: 84-54-823526, Fax:84-54-825155, Email: sgmorin@dng.vnn.vn ) has just finished its renovation and wants to be the best hotel in town. It is more centrally located then the 2 hotels above, next to the Tran Tien Bridge, but not next to the river like the others. Therefore, you can only have a riverview from their panorama bar.The rooms are nicely built around a peaceful and quiet courtyard hich also holds a swimming pool. The rooms are OK but did not impress me too much. A standard double room costs 60 US$ including VAT and breakfast, but discounts of 20 US$ are readily given (10/2000). They have a website at www.saigon-tourist.com/saigon_morin

Thang Long hotel, Hung Vuong 16, tel. 826462 or 826463, Fax. 826464, E-mail : Huong@bdvn.vnd.net 25 Rooms (10-15 US$) with AC, fan, TV, fridge, bathroom with bad/shower (hot/cold). Free pick up from airport or trainstation if room reservation is made by fax, tel or e-mail. Payment with TC, master card, VISA, American express.

Restaurants/cafs/internet

World famous ire the "Lac Thanh" and "Lac Thien" restaurants, because the chief cooks at these restaurants are deaf-mute. We went to Lac Thien and the food was indeed marvellouw. Don't expect too much of the surroundings though: plastic chairs, no napkins and you're almost sitting on the sidewalk. The Paradise Garden restaurant is popular amoung locals. It's under the trees next to Thien Trang Bridge.It is a slightly upmarket place. Prices are between 20.000 and 30.000 for a plate (10/2000). News Caf restaurant, Hung Vuong 14 Both foodstalls, I can hardly call it a restaurant, are liying next to each other and serving the same dishes at the same cheap price. If you pass by young girls will try to shout (get) you in.

Open Bistro, Hung Vuong 8. Same food and price as the two above but a nicer setting (open restaurant). Its part of the Sinh Caf. This one carries away my preference. Star Photo color centre, Hung Vuong 1a. Internet: 400 VND/min

To do

Citadel The citadel is a 10 km long wall which encloses the old part of Hue. A moat encircles the entire citadel. There are 10 entrances (bridge or road) leading to the innerside. The citadel holds the imperial city inside. It closes at 5.30 pm, so it is possible to visit after you return from your Perfume River trip, or after your bustrip from Hoi An. A 2 hour visit was more then enough for us.

Imperial city It was the former place for political and administrative activities of Nguyen dynasty and also the residence of the Royal family. The surrounding wall has a square shape and four entrances. Due to the heavy fighting during the TET-offensive in 1968 almost nothing remains from the palaces and temples. Only a few palaces, which are heavily reconstructed, can be visited. The purple city, area only reserved for the emperor and his family, is totally blown away. Only a few foundations can be seen, the rest is grassland. The imperial city is a must see but dont expect too much. Admission : 55.000 VND Where ? Inside the citadel in the old part of Hue

Thien Mu pagoda Its the symbol of Hue city. To the left is a hugh bell. Behind the pagoda stands the blue car from the monk Thich Quang Duc who burnt himself to death in Saigon as a protest against the Diem regime. No admission fee. Where ? Lies at the perfume river, +/- 4 km from the imperial city.

Around Hue

Most people take a boattrip and visit the tombs along the river. There is a scam going on with entrance tickets to the tombs. Boatmen collect the tickets from you, and then give them to corrupt guards who sell these tickets to tourists who don't notice.So make sure the ticket you buy has not been used before.

Along the perfume river (recommended)

The banks of the Perfume river became the royal graveyard for the 13 rulers of this area. More then 7 tombs are spread out in the south of Hue. Since you cant visited them all the most interesting are the ones mentionned below. Because all 3 of them have a wall you cant avoid the high entrance fee. Tomb Tu Duc 7 km from Hue. This is really a marvellous place and not to miss. The tombs are set in beautiful garden with a pond with waterlillies. Admission : 5 US$ or 55.000 VND

Tomb Minh Mang 10 km from Hue Admission : 5 US$ or 55.000 VND

Tomb Khai Dinh 10 km from Hue. Admission : 5 US$ or 55.000 VND

Every tomb is a small imperial city on his own with a palace, garden, lake, temple and the grave itself. The settings are all beautiful. Because the tombs didnt suffer a lot from bombing they are looking nicer than the Imperial city itself in Hue. After +/-17.00h the ticketcounters are closed so you can try to get in for free if the gatedoor is open ( this was the case for Minh Mang when I was there). Excursions can be booked at the travelagencies in Hue (See chapter : travelagencies). Alternative : take a taxi (10 US$) or rent a bike to discover them on your own. Be aware that the tomb of Khai Dinh and Minh Mang are lying at the opposite side of the river so you will have to manage a ferry (3 US$) to bring you across.

DMZ-zone (not recommended except Vinh Moc tunnels)

This was the demarcation line between North and South Vietnam. The heaviest and bloodiest battles took place here during the war. Nowadays, many places are not accessible due to unexploded landmines and bombes. Nature is devastated caused by relentless shellin or defoliation. Eucalyptus trees are planted to rehabilitate this area. Bomb craters in the landscape are a quiet witness of what happened here. Two well maintened highways leads to some of the historical places. PS: apparanently the Dakrong bridge has collapsed in the middle of 1999, so trips up to the Ho Chi Minh trail are no longer possible. Check out whether the bridge has been restored before you sign up for the trip.

Along highway 1 Church frame : a reminder of the war.

Hien Luong bridge : The bridge over the Ben Hai river. The river forms the demarcation line between the north and the south during 1954 and 1975.

Vinh Moc Tunnels : These tunnels where constructed by the villagers of the Vinh Moc village to escape the heavy bombing during the war. There are 3 levels of depth (deepest is 30 meters), twelve entrances with 7 opening up to the beach. The total length of the tunnels is 2 km. 17 childeren were born underground. Next to the tunnels is a small museum.

The 15 minutes walk to the tunnels is guided. Torches are available. The ground is slippery.

Along highway 9 Rockpile : A 230 m high hill which was used by the US-marine. There is nothing left from the base except the rock of course.

Dakrong bridge : A bridge which was constructed in 1976 across the Dakrong river with Cuban assistance. When I was there (1999) the bridge had collapsed under his weight. Construction was going on.

Ho Chi Minh Trail : The lifeline (food, weapons, medecine) for the Viet Cong to support their troops in the South. This trail runs over 16000 km in total distance leading also to Laos and Cambodja.

Khe Sanh Combat base : An American base with airstrip which was the scene of one of the important battles during the war. Nothing to see anymore except for a very small museum with 10 pictures and some scrap metal.

Excursions can be booked at the travelagencies in Hue.

See chapter : travelagencies.

Personnal opinion My opinion (and not alone mine) : A tour starts at 6.00h till 18.00h brings you to all these "highlights" to see what there isnt anymore (rock, bridge, trail, base). Except for the Vinh Moc tunnels its a waste of time. Maybe Vietnamese or US people who have a bond with the war wont agree with it.

Hotels: Most lodging south of river, GHs behind htls.

Hue Massacre 2

Local authorities later released a list of 428 names of persons whom they said had been positively identified from the creek bed remains. The Communists' rationale for their excesses was elimination of "traitors to the revolution." The list of 428 victims breaks down as follows: 25 per cent military: two officers, the rest NCO's and enlisted men; 25 per cent students; 50 per cent civil servants, village and hamlet officials, service personnel of various categories, and ordinary workers.

The fourth or Phu Thu Salt Flat Finds came in November, 1969, near the fishing village of Luong Vien some ten miles east of Hue, another desolate region. Government troops early in the month began an intensive effort to clear the area of remnants of the local Communist organization. People of Luong Vien, population 700, who had remained silent in the presence of troops for 20 months apparently felt secure enough from Communist revenge to break silence and lead officials to the find. Based on descriptions from villagers whose memories are not always clear, local officials estimate the number of bodies at Phu Thu to be at least 300 and possibly 1,000.

The story remains uncompleted. If the estimates by Hue officials are even approximately correct, nearly 2,000 people are still missing. Re-capitulation of the dead and missing After the battle, the GVN's total estimated civilian casualties resulting from Battle of Hue 7600 Wounded (hospitalized or outpatients) with injures attributable to warfare -1900 Estimated civilian deaths due to accident of battle -844 First finds-bodies discovered immediately post battle, 1968 -1173 Second finds, including Sand Dune finds, March-July, 1969 (est.) -809 Third find, Da Mai Creek find (Nam Hoa district) September, 1969 -428 Fourth Finds-Phu Thu Salt Flat find, November, 1969 (est.) -300 Miscellaneous finds during 1969 (approximate) -100 TOTAL YET UNACCOUNTED FOR 1946 [1] SEATO: South East Asia Treaty Organization. [2] PAVN: People's Army of Vietnam, soldiers of North Vietnam Army serving in the South, number currently 105,000. [3] PLAF: People's Liberation Armed Force, Formerly called the National Liberation Front Army.

Communist Rationale The killing in Hue that added up to the Hue Massacre far exceeded in numbers any atrocity by the Communists previously in South Vietnam. The difference was not only one in degree but one in kind. The character of the terror that emerges from an examination of Hue is quite distinct from Communist terror acts elsewhere, frequent or brutal as they may have been. The terror in Hue was not a morale building act-the quick blow deep into the enemy's lair which proves enemy vulnerability and the guerrilla's omnipotence and which is quite different from gunning down civilians in areas under guerrilla control. Nor was it terror to advertise the cause. Nor to disorient and psychologically isolate the individual, since the vast majority of the killings were done secretly. Nor, beyond the blacklist killings, was it terror to eliminate opposing forces. Hue did not follow the pattern of terror to provoke governmental over-response since it resulted in only what might have been anticipated-government assistance. There were elements of each objective, true, but none serves to explain the widespread and diverse pattern of death meted out by the Communists.

What is offered here is a hypothesis which will suggest logic and system behind what appears to be simple, random slaughter. Before dealing with it, let us consider three facts which constantly reassert themselves to a Hue visitor seeking to discover what exactly happened there and, more importantly, exactly why it happened. All three fly in the face of common sense and contradict to a degree what has been written. Yet, in talking to all sources-province chief, police chief, American advisor, eye witness, captured prisoner, hoi chanh (defector) or those few who miraculously escaped a death scene-the three facts emerge again and again. The first fact, and perhaps the most important, is that despite contrary appearances virtually no Communist killing was due to rage, frustration, or panic during the Communist withdrawal at the end. Such explanations are frequently heard, but they fail to hold up under scrutiny. Quite the contrary, to trace back any single killing is to discover that almost without exception it was the result of a decision rational and justifiable in the Communist mind. In fact, most killings were, from the Communist calculation, imperative.

The second fact is that, as far as can be determined, virtually all killings were done by local Communist cadres and not by the ARVN troops or Northerners or other outside Communists. Some 12,000 ARVN troops fought the battle of Hue and killed civilians in the process but this was incidental to their military effort. Most of the 150 Communist civilian cadres operating within the city were local, that is from the Thua Thien province area. They were the ones who issued the death orders. Whether they acted on instructions from higher headquarters (and the Communist organizational system is such that one must assume they did), and, if so, what exactly those orders were, no one yet knows for sure. The third fact is that beyond "example" executions of prominent "tyrants", most of the killings were done secretly with extraordinary effort made to hide the bodies. Most outsiders have a mental picture of Hue as a place of public executions and prominent mass burial mounds of fresh-turned earth. Only in the early days were there well-publicized executions and these were relatively few. The burial sites in the city were easily discovered because it is difficult to create a graveyard in a densely populated area without someone noticing it. All the other finds were well hidden, all in terrain lending itself to concealment, probably the reason the sites were chosen in the first place. A body in the sand dunes is as difficult to find as a seashell pushed deep into a sandy beach over which a wave has washed. Da Mai Creek is in the remotest part of the province and must have required great exertion by the Communists to lead their victims there. Had not the three hoi chanh led searchers to the wild uninhabited spot the bodies might well remain undiscovered to this day. A visit to all sites leaves one with the impression that the Communists made a major effort to hide their deeds. The hypothesis offered here connects and fixes in time the Communist assessment of their prospects for staying in Hue with the kind of death order issued. It seems clear from sifting evidence that they had no single unchanging assessment with regard to themselves and their future in Hue, but rather that changing situations during the course of the battle altered their prospects and their intentions.

It also seems equally clear from the evidence that there was no single Communist policy on death orders; instead the kind of death order issued changed during the course of the battle. The correlation between these two is high and divides into three phases. The hypothesis therefore is that as Communist plans during the Battle of Hue changed so did the nature of the death orders issued. This conclusion is based on overt Communist statements, testimony by prisoners1 and hoi chanh, accounts of eyewitnesses, captured documents and the internal logic of the Communist situation. Thinking in Phase I was well expressed in a Communist Party of South Vietnam (PRP) resolution issued to cadres on the eve of the offensive: "Be sure that the liberated ... cities are successfully consolidated. Quickly activate armed and political units, establish administrative organs at all echelons, promote (civilian) defence and combat support activities, get the people to establish an air defence system and generally motivate them to be ready to act against the enemy when he counterattacks..." This was the limited view at the start - held momentarily. Subsequent developments in Hue were reported in different terms. Hanoi Radio on February 4 said: "After one hour's fighting the Revolutionary Armed Forces occupied the residence of the puppet provincial governor (in Hue), the prison and the offices of the puppet administration... The Revolutionary Armed Forces punished most cruel agents of the enemy and seized control of the streets... rounded up and punished dozen of cruel agents and caused the enemy organs of control and oppression to crumble..."

During the brief stay in Hue, the civilian cadres, accompanied by execution squads, were to round up and execute key individuals whose elimination would greatly weaken the government's administrative apparatus following Communist withdrawal. This was the blacklist period, the time of the drumhead court. Cadres with lists of names and addresses on clipboards appeared and called into kangaroo court various "enemies of the Revolution." Their trials were public, usually in the court-yard of a temporary Communist headquarters. The trials lasted about ten minutes each and there are no known not-guilty verdicts. Punishment, invariably execution, was meted out immediately. Bodies were either hastily buried or turned over to relatives. Singled out for this treatment were civil servants, especially those involved in security or police affairs, military officers and some non-commissioned officers, plus selected non-official but natural leaders of the community, chiefly educators and religionists. With the exception of a particularly venomous attack on Hue intellectuals, the Phase I pattern was standard operating procedure for Communists in Vietnam. It was the sort of thing that had been going on systematically in the villages for ten years. Permanent blacklists, prepared by zonal or inter-zone party headquarters have long existed for use throughout the country, whenever an opportunity presents itself. However, not all the people named in the lists used in Hue were liquidated. There were a large number of people who obviously were listed, who stayed in the city throughout the battle, but escaped. Throughout the 24-day period the Communist cadres were busy hunting down persons on their blacklists, but after a few days their major efforts were turned into a new channel.

Hue: Phase II In the first few days, the Tet offensive affairs progressed so well for the Communists in Hue (although not to the south, where party chiefs received some rather grim evaluations from cadres in the midst of the offensive in the Mekong Delta) that for a brief euphoric moment they believed they could hold the city. Probably the assessment that the Communists were in Hue to stay was not shared at the higher echelons, but it was widespread in Hue and at the Thua Thien provincial level. One intercepted Communist message, apparently written on February 2, exhorted cadres in Hue to hold fast, declaring; "A new era, a real revolutionary period has begun (because of our Hue victories) and we need only to make swift assault (in Hue) to secure our target and gain total victory." The Hanoi official party newspaper, Nhan Dan, echoed the theme: "Like a thunderbolt, a general offensive has been hurled against the U.S. and the puppets... The U.S.-puppet machine has been duly punished. The puppet administrative organs... have suddenly collapsed. The Thieu-Ky administration cannot escape from complete collapse. The puppet troops have become extremely weak and cannot avoid being completely exterminated." Of course, some of this verbiage is simply exhortation to the faithful, and, as is always the case in reading Communist output, it is most difficult to distinguish between belief and wish. But testimony from prisoners and hoi chanh, as well as intercepted battle messages, indicate that both rank and file and cadres believed for a few days they were permanently in Hue, and they acted accordingly.

Among their acts was to extend the death order and launch what in effect was a period of social reconstruction, Communist style. Orders went out, apparently from the provincial level of the party, to round up what one prisoner termed "social negatives," that is, those individuals or members of groups who represented potential danger or liability in the new social order. This was quite impersonal, not a blacklist of names but a blacklist of titles and positions held in the old society, directed not against people as such but against "social units."

As seen earlier in North Vietnam and in Communist China, the Communists were seeking to break up the local social order by eliminating leaders and key figures in religious organizations (Buddhist bonzes, Catholic priests), political parties (four members of the Central Committee of Vietnam), social movements such as women's organizations and youth groups, including what otherwise would be totally inexplicable, the execution of pro-Communist student leaders from middle and upper class families. In consonance with this, killing in some instances was done by family unit. In one well-documented case during this period a squad with a death order entered the home of a prominent community leader and shot him, his wife, his married son and daughter-in-law, his young unmarried daughter, a male and female servant and their baby. The family cat was strangled; the family dog was clubbed to death; the goldfish scooped out of the fish-bowl and tossed on the floor. When the Communists left, no life remained in the house. A "social unit" had been eliminated.

Phase II also saw an intensive effort to eliminate intellectuals, who are perhaps more numerous in Hue than elsewhere in Vietnam. Surviving Hue intellectuals explain this in terms of a long-standing Communist hatred of Hue intellectuals, who were anti-Communist in the worst or most insulting manner: they refused to take Communism seriously. Hue intellectuals have always been contemptuous of Communist ideology, brushing it aside as a latecomer to the history of ideas and not a very significant one at that.

Hue, being a bastion of traditionalism, with its intellectuals steeped in Confucian learning intertwined with Buddhism, did not, even in the fermenting years of the 1920s, and 1930s, debate the merits of Communism. Hue ignored it. The intellectuals in the university, for example, in a year's course in political thought dispense with Marxism-Leninism in a half hour lecture, painting it as a set of shallow barbarian political slogans with none of the depth and time-tested reality of Confucian learning, nor any of the splendor and soaring humanism of Buddhist thought. Since the Communist, especially the Communist from Hue, takes his dogma seriously, he can become demoniac when dismissed by a Confucian as a philosophic ignoramus, or by a Buddhist as a trivial materialist. Or, worse than being dismissed, ignored through the years. So with the righteousness of a true believer, he sought to strike back and eliminate this challenge of indifference. Hue intellectuals now say the hunt-down in their ranks has taught them a hard lesson, to take Communism seriously, if not as an idea, at least as a force loose in their world. The killings in Phase II perhaps accounted for 2,000 of the missing. But the worst was not yet over.

Hue: Phase III Inevitably, and as the leadership in Hanoi must have assumed all along, considering the forces ranged against it, the battle in Hue turned against the Communists. An intercepted PAVN radio message from the Citadel, February 22, asked for permission to withdraw. Back came the reply: permission refused, attack on the 23rd. That attack was made, a last, futile one. On the 24th the Citadel was taken. That expulsion was inevitable was apparent to the Communists for at least the preceding week. It was then that Phase III began, the cover-the-traces period. Probably the entire civilian underground apparat in Hue had exposed itself during Phase II. Those without suspicion rose to proclaim their identity. Typical is the case of one Hue resident who described his surprise on learning that his next door neighbour was the leader of a phuong (which made him 10th to 15th ranking Communist civilian in the city), saying in wonder, "I'd known him for 18 years and never thought he was the least interested in politics." Such a cadre could not go underground again unless there was no one around who remembered him. Hence Phase III, elimination of witnesses.

Probably the largest number of killings came during this period and for this reason. Those taken for political indoctrination probably were slated to be returned. But they were local people as were their captors; names and faces were familiar. So, as the end approached they became not just a burden but a positive danger. Such undoubtedly was the case with the group taken from the church at Phu Cam. Or of the 15 high school students whose bodies were found as part of the Phu Thu Salt Flat find.

Categorization in a hypothesis such as this is, of course, gross and at best only illustrative. Things are not that neat in real life. For example, throughout the entire time the blacklist hunt went on. Also, there was revenge killing by the Communists in the name of the party, the so-called "revolutionary justice." And undoubtedly there were personal vendettas, old scores settled by individual party members. The official Communist view of the killing in Hue was contained in a book written and published in Hanoi:

"Actively combining their efforts with those of the PLAF and population, other self-defence and armed units of the city (of Hue) arrested and called to surrender the surviving functionaries of the puppet administration and officers and men of the puppet army who were skulking. Die-hard cruel agents were punished." The Communist line on the Hue killings later at the Paris talks was that it was not the work of Communists but of "dissident local political parties". However, it should be noted that Hanoi's Liberation Radio April 26, 1968, criticized the effort in Hue to recover bodies, saying the victims were only "hooligan lackeys who had incurred blood debts of the Hue compatriots and who were annihilated by the Southern armed forces and people in early Spring." This propaganda line however was soon dropped in favour of the line that it really was local political groups fighting each other.

The Hue Massacre Under the Eyes of Foreign Reporters AN EFFICIENT SLAUGHTER (Vietnam a History, Stanley Karnow, Viking Press, NY, 1983, p. 530-531) The Communists executed hundreds of civilians during their Tet offensive, but the slaughter was particularly marked in and around Hue, where estimates of those put to death range from 200 to 400 British Journalist Stewart Harris, who opposes U.S. policy in Vietnam and declares that "my instinct is not to sustain it by writing propaganda," recently visited Hue' and vicinity to investigate the executions. Last week he reported his findings in the Times of London:

The North Vietnamese army and the Viet Cong executed many Vietnamese, some Americans and a few other foreigners during the fighting in and around Hue. I am sure of this after spending several days in Hue investigating allegations of killings and torture. I saw and photographed a lot for myself, but inevitably I relied on many civilians and soldiers, Vietnamese, Americans, Australians and others. All seemed honest witnesses, telling the truth as they believed it.

On a lovely sunny afternoon in the green valley of Nam Hoa, about ten miles southwest of Hue, I was with Warrant Officer Ostara, an Australian adviser with the South Vietnam army standing on the sloping sides of a recently dug hole. In the bottom were rush mats over sheets of plastics. Ostara drew them back and I saw two bodies, dead Vietnamese, with their arms tied behind their backs just above the elbows. They had been shot through the back of the head, the bullet coming out through the mouth. The faces would have been difficult to recognize, but the day before 27 women from the village walked out three miles carrying mattocks to dig for their missing husbands and sons, having heard about this patch of disturbed earth near the roadside. Ostara told me that the enemy had come through on their way to Hue. They had taken 27 men. Some were leaders and some were younger strong enough to be porters or even ancillary soldiers. "Men were simply condemned by drumhead courts and executed as enemies of the people," said Bob Kelly, the senior province adviser in Thua Thien province. "These were the leaders, often quite small men. Others were executed when their usefulness ceased, or when they didn't Cooperate they were shot for their trouble. Some of my staff were badly mutilated, but I am inclined to believe this was done after they were killed. Their hands were tied and they were shot behind the head I helped to dig one body out, but I have been told by Vietnamese whom I respect that some people were buried alive."

Lieut. Gregory Sharp. an American adviser with the Vietnam 21st Ranger Battalion, told me that his men had come across about 25 new graves in a cemetery five miles east of Hue on March 14. From half a dozen of the graves the heads were sticking up out of the sandy soil and, according to Sharp, "there wasn't much left of them-buzzards and dogs, I suppose. Some had been shot in the head and some hadn't. They had been buried alive. I think. There were sort of scratches in the sand in one place, as if someone had clawed his way out." At Quan Ta Ngan three Australian warrant officers saw seven men in one of three graves they found. The seven. I was told, had been shot one after the other, through the back of the head, hands tied.

Soon after arriving in Hue' I went in a Jeep with three Viet Nam officers to inspect sites where the bodies of executed men were said to have been found. We went first to Gia Hoi high school in District Two, east of the citadel. Here 22 new graves had been found, each containing between three and seven bodies. It is still a horrifying place. The officers told me that the bodies had been tied and, again. Most had been shot through the head, but "some had been buried alive."

There are about 40,000 Roman Catholic Vietnamese in Hue'. What happened to them? About three-quarters of the Roman Catholics in Hue' live in Phu Cam, on the southern outskirts of the city. They resisted strongly when the enemy came in, and some were executed. Four Viet Nam priests were taken away and three foreign priests were killed. Two French priests were actually given permission by the Viet Cong to return to Phu Cam and help the sisters-and then they were shot on the way back. Another French priest was executed, perhaps because he was chaplain to the Americans. Summing up all this evidence about the behavior of the Viet Cong and the North Vietnamese army in Hue one thing is abundantly clear and ought to surprise no one. They put into practice, with their usual efficiency the traditional Communist policy of punishing by execution selected leaders who support their enemies. In Hue, as elsewhere, they were unable on the whole to capture and execute the more important officials, because these men were careful to protect themselves in heavily fortified compounds, defended by soldiers and police. In Hue, as elsewhere, the more defenseless "little people' were the victims-the village and hamlet chiefs, the teachers and the policemen. Already most of these positions have been filled again, and I find it impossible to write adequately about the courage of men who succeed the executed. The world renown historian, Stanley Karnow, and an authority in the Vietnam War History has revealed many details of the Tet offensive and the Hue massacre.

Five months before, as they began to prepare for the assault planners and their intelligence agents inside the city compiled two lists. One detailed nearly two hundred targets ranging from such installations as government bureaus and posts to the home of the district chief's concubine. The other contained the names of "cruel tyrants and reactionary elements," a rubric covering civilian functionaries, army officers, and nearly anybody else linked to the South Vietnamese regime as well as uncooperative merchants, intellectuals and clergymen. Instructions were also issued to arrest Americans other foreigners except for the French-presumably because President de Gaulle had publicly criticized U.S. policy in Vietnam.

Vietcong teams, armed with these directives, conducted house to house searches immediately after seizing control of Hue, and they were merciless. During the months and years that followed, the remains of approximately three thousand people were exhumed in beds, coastal salt flats, and jungle clearings. The victims had been shot or clubbed to death, or buried alive. Paradoxically, the American public barely noticed these atrocities, preoccupied as it was by the incident at Mylai-in which American soldiers had massacred a hundred Vietnamese peasants, women and children among them. Revisiting Vietnam in 1981, I was able to elicit little credible evidence from the Communists clarify the episode.

Captured in the home of Vietnamese friends, Stephen Miller of the U.S. Information Service was shot in a field behind a Catholic seminary Dr. Horst Gunther Krainick, a German physician teaching at the local medical school, was seized with his wife and two other German doctors and their bodies were found in a shallow pit. Despite their instruction to spare the French, the Communists arrested two Benedictine missionary, shot one of them, and buried the other alive. They also killed Father Buu Dong, a popular Vietnamese Catholic priest who had entertained Vietcong agents in his rectory, where he kept a portrait of Ho Chi Minh -telling parishioners that he prayed for Ho because "he is our friend too." Many Vietnamese with only the flimsiest ties to Saigon regime suffered as well Pham Van Tuong, a part-time janitor at a government office, was gunned down in his front yard along with his two small children. Mrs. Nguyen Thi Lao, a cigarette vendor, was presumably executed because her sister worked in a government bureau. Anyone resisting arrest was promptly killed, but those who surrendered to the Communists often fared no better. Five South Vietnamese officers, who emerged from their hiding place without a fight, were taken to a high school playground and each shot in the head. Many people disappeared after submitting to Vietcong promises of a quick release, as one woman later recalled: "The Communists came to our house and questioned my father who was an elderly official about to retire. Then they went away returning afterward to say that he had to attend a study a study session that would last only ten days. My mother and I were worried because the Communists had arrested his father in just that way in 1946. Like his father my father never came back."

"The Vietnam Experience" (Clark Dougan & Stephen Weiss, "The Vietnam Experience 1968", Boston Publishing Company, Boston, MA, p. 36) The full story of what happened in Hue between January 31 and February 25,1968, may never be known. But the preponderance of evidence, including the testimony of many survivors, indicates that Communist forces did in fact carry out systematic assassinations. The most persuasive case is that made by reporter Don Oberdorfer of the Washington Post in his authoritative work, Tet! Following up rumors of large-scale executions behind enemy lines, Oberdorfer made three visits to Hue-one during the battle, another just after, and a third in December 1969 "to reconstruct the experiences of the Hue people". Their pseudonymous accounts of the fates of relatives, neighbors, and friends-some of which have been recounted in this chapter- left no doubt in Orberdorfer' mind that mass executions have been carried out by the communists.

"Aftermath" chapter of the "Battle for Hue" (Keith William Nolan, "Battle for Hue", Presidio Press 1983, p. 183-184) Soon after the battle, the South Vietnamese government initiated Operation Recovery, a 90-day relief and reconstruction effort aimed at the entire I Corps, but focused primarily on Hue. It brought food, clothing, shelter, and medical attention to that city's estimated 116,000 refugees (out of a population of 140,000). By the end of the year, life in Hue was relatively back to normal. As Major Swenson noted, "My final duties as liaison officer entailed taking visitors to Task Force X-RAY through the city on a guided tour. The city was not destroyed in the Tet Offensive. It was damaged, but still beautiful."

The war had finally come to the people of Hue - and they paid the price. As Hue pulled itself out of the mess, one bloody sidelight of the battle was uncovered, something worse than refugees and cross-fire deaths: the Viet Cong and North Vietnamese had massacred many of the people of Hue during their occupation. Over the years, the evidence was collected in bits and pieces; the discovery of mass graves, captured communist documents, statements by prisoners of war. It was learned that with the typical cold-blooded efficiency of the Communists, the VC had gone into Hue with lists of so-called Enemies of the People. Those marked included government officials, city administrators, intellectuals, teachers, college students, soldiers, foreigners - and their families - all those suspected of being potential enemies of the communist cause. There was one other category: all those who could identify the VC infrastructure now that it had surfaced for the Tet Offensive. That could include any innocent bystander. The people were rounded up and some were executed in the city. When the fight was obviously being lost by the VC, they marched their political prisoners outside the city to different sites and killed them. Some were buried alive. Great pains were taken by the Communists to conceal their work, and it took a year for the allies to put the pieces together. The South Vietnamese government finally recovered three thousand bodies in mass graves around Hue. Another two thousand people were still unaccounted for.

The 1968 Hue Massacre:Lessons Learned For the last half century, Vietnamese are the most ill-fated people.

During WWII the Vietnamese were caught in the power struggle between the French and the Japanese and the toll was the starvation of more than a million people. From 1946 to 1975 many more became victims of the Anti-French war followed by the Vietnam conflict.

Besides the incidental victims of the war, many lives were needlessly sacrificed for the so called "Communist Revolutionary", namely:

1.The Land Reform in the 50' s. 2.The Viet cong terrorism in the 60' s, where Mau Than massacre was at its height. 3.The Viet cong cruel policies have caused many people to suffer and die in concentration camps throughout the whole country. Coupled with those who lost the lives (Boat People) at sea in search of freedom.

In the wake of the demise of Communism, Ha Noi had to confess and accepted its mistakes about the Land Reform policy and had to end its brutal policy in South Vietnam during the first years after 1975.

But, in the issue of respecting human lives, social equality, and keeping their promises, the Communist regime is found at where it was 30 years ago. This is the reason why people continue to be oppressed and terrorized. By that very reason, to understand and to remember what actually happened in the Mau Than massacre will help contribute toward the effort of bringing the serious mistake of the past to the light - in hope to prevent such mistakes from recurring.

Having found out the criminals that were responsible for the Mau Than bloody massacre, will not only do console to the victims' soul, but will also prevent those who are in charge of governing Vietnam from repeating these crimes.

May this document be a contribution to the effort of keeping any individual from using the name of a doctrine, a political party or a government as a convenience to violate the basic Human Rights. It is the essence of the ill-attitude of the disregard for Human Rights that easily leads to the crimes against humanity: A Crime that the Communist Party of Vietnam must admit to have committed in the past half century, especially those of the Mau Than Massacre.
 Kim Nguyen knguyen@*no-spam*nrn1.nrcan.gc.ca


\4 Hanoi

Hanoi is the capital of Vietnam. The city lies in northern Vietnam on the west bank of the Red River about 55 miles (90 kilometers) from the Gulf of Tonkin. Second in population and economic importance to Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi is the traditional center of culture in Vietnam. The Old Quarter, the oldest part of Hanoi, is an area of narrow streets and tiny shops near the river. The area where French colonial officials lived when the French controlled Vietnam has wide boulevards and stately villas. Ba Dinh Square in the center of the city is the scene of large public ceremonies.

The Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, one of the city's most famous landmarks, stands on the square. The preserved remains of the Vietnamese Communist leader Ho Chi Minh may be seen there. Other landmarks include the One Pillar Pagoda and a complex of buildings known as the Temple of Literature. Hanoi University of Technology and the University of Hanoi are the city's largest institutions of higher learning. Many of Hanoi's people work for the govt. (pop. 3,058,855)

Hanoi was the capital of Vietnam and known as Thang Long during most of the period from 1010 to 1802, when Hue became the capital. Hanoi received its present name in 1831. The French took over the city in 1882 and made it the administrative center of French Indochina in 1887. Hanoi became the capital of Communist North Vietnam in 1954, when the country was divided in two after the French were defeated.

When the US began bombing North Vietnam in the mid-1960's, during the Vietnam War, the government moved most factories out of Hanoi. The few industrial sites that remained suffered heavy damage from bombing in December 1972. The rest of the city was largely untouched. The war ended in 1975. North and South Vietnam were officially reunited in 1976 with Hanoi as the capital. Since the late 1980's, the population of Hanoi has grown rapidly. This growth has severely overtaxed the city's ability to provide water, electric power, and other basic services.

Red River Bridges. You'll cross the Chuong Duong bridge (built 1985) on the way in from Noi Bai airport. Long Bien bridge (1682m) is on the north. It was bombed a zillion times at great cost during the war and quickly repaired. It was defended by 300 anti aircraft guns and 84 SAM missles. Attacks finally ended when POWs were used to repair it. Bridge opened in 1902 and named after Paul Doumer, then governor general who later was assainated as president of France. You can walk across it.

Cap, from 1976, of Vietnam; cap, 1954-76, of N.Vietnam; and former capital of French Indochina. The city is situated in northern Vietnam on the western bank of the Red River, about 85 mi (140 km) inland from the South China Sea.

The region around modern Hanoi was settled in prehistoric times, and the location was often chosen as a political centre by Chinese conquerors. In 1010 Ly Thai To, the first ruler of the Ly dynasty (1009-1225) of Vietnam, chose the site of Hanoi for his capital. It remained the main capital of Vietnam until 1802, when the last Vietnamese dynasty, the Nguyen, transferred the capital south to Hue. The name Dong Kinh, given to the city during the Later Le dynasty (1428-1787), became corrupted by Europeans to Tonquin; during the French-colonial period (1883-1945) the name Tonkin was used to refer to the entire region. In 1831 the city of Dong Kinh was renamed Ha Noi ("City Between Two Rivers") by the Nguyen dynasty.

Under French rule, Hanoi again became an important administrative centre. In 1902 it was made the capital of French Indochina. This was due in large part to Tonkin's proximity to southern China, where the French sought to expand their influence, and also to Tonkin's mineral resources. Hanoi remained the administrative centre during the Japanese occupation (1940-45) of the territory. In August 1945, following the Japanese surrender, the Viet Minh under the leadership of Ho Chi Minh seized power in Hanoi, and the city was established as the capital of the Democratic Republic of Vietnam. The French, however, reasserted their control over Hanoi from 1946 until their defeat at Dien Bien Phu on May 7, 1954. Shortly thereafter Hanoi became the capital of the Democratic Republic of Vietnam (North Vietnam). During the Vietnam War, the bombing of Hanoi by the United States in 1965, 1968, and 1972 caused massive damage. Following the collapse of South Vietnam on April 30, 1975, North Vietnam extended its control over all of Vietnam. On July 2, 1976, the Socialist Republic of Vietnam was proclaimed, and Hanoi was established as its capital. Many of Hanoi's centuries-old monuments and palaces have been destroyed by foreign aggression and civil war, but there remain several historical and scenic points. Among the latter is Lake Hoan Kiem ("Lake of the Restored Sword"). Historical sites include the Co Loa citadel, dating from the 3rd century BC; the Temple of Literature (1070), dedicated to Confucius; the Mot Cot ("One-Pillar") Pagoda (1049); and the Temple of the Trung Sisters (1142). The University of Hanoi, the Revolutionary Museum, the Army Museum, and the National Museum are important cultural institutions. Since 1954 Hanoi has been transformed from a primarily commercial city into an industrial and agricultural centre. Manufactures include machine tools, electric generators and motors, plywood, textiles, chemicals, and matches. Rice, vegetables, cereals, and industrial crops are grown in the surrounding area.

Thang Long bridge 5km is longest bridge in Indochina. to Noi Ba Intl A/P Long Bien bridge built 1901.

Smaller, quieter, greener and more dignified than SGN, the nation's capital can sometimes look like a provincial French city. This, like most things in Vietnam, is changing fast as economic restrictions are lifted and old regulations are forgotten. Life (and traffic, unfortunately) is returning to the streets and shopping no longer means a trip to a dreary government department store. Still, the city remains quiet enough for cycling to be the ideal means of getting around, and many hotels and cafes rent bicycles.

Places to visit include the fascinating 11th-century Temple of Literature (site of Vietnam's first University), the 15th-century Old Quarter, some enchanting lakes and temples, and the Mausoleum of Ho Chi Minh.

Vibrant Vietnam -As Americans rediscover the welcoming side of Vietnam, the food makes its own cultural connection with subtle flavors and the freshest of ingredients By Kristin Eddy CT Oct 10 01

HANOI -- The ingredients on display at this capital city's large outdoor markets, such as the 19 December Market, look fresh enough to talk back as you edge through the closely placed stalls. Whether it be live eels slithering in a crowded plastic tub, clucking caged chickens, dewy bunches of water spinach or towers of crisp green papaya, food here is sold within a day.

Women vendors, perspiring in the 95-degree heat despite their conical straw hats that provide a halo of shade, can tell you that the food has to be quickly traded, as there is no refrigeration at the market. But the absolute freshness of the ingredients also is part and parcel of a sprightly cuisine that is of increasing interest outside the country. The delicate flavors and colorful presentations appeal to an American audience similarly enthralled with honest cooking.

"Vietnam is very rich in fruits and vegetables, with excellent seafood," said Didier Corlou, chef at the Hotel Sofitel Metropole here, as he walked through the 19 December Market. "There is really fantastic quality. I have seen 10 different kinds of basil just from one vendor."

These days people don't have to visit this part of the world to become saturated with the Vietnamese culinary experience, now that a steady release of glamorously photographed cookbooks, upscale Vietnamese restaurants and culinary tours have become part of U.S. culinary culture.

For Americans of any age, Vietnam is inextricably tied up with memories or stories of what is known here as the "American War." Popular media depictions in the U.S., from movies to books, have mainly focused on the violent confrontation between the two countries, leaving little room for education in the more pleasant aspects of Vietnamese culture such as food.

What many Americans have missed is an exceptional cuisine, influenced by Chinese, Laotian, Burmese, Thai and French cooking, but retaining its own special flavor. Vietnamese cooking emphasizes a careful blend of sweet and sour, spicy and salty seasonings, typically punctuated with a bounty of fresh herbs.

"The Vietnamese table is different because it is a very green table," said Mai Pham, a restaurateur in Sacramento and the author of several cookbooks, including the new "Pleasure of the Vietnamese Table" (HarperCollins, $27.50). During a recent visit to Chicago, Pham rhapsodized about the produce available in Vietnam.

"There are always mustard greens and lettuce leaves and piles of fresh herbs in long sprigs. Everything is lush and green and aromatic, like the country itself."

Layered effects - Additionally, a French imprint shows up in custard desserts and loaves of fresh French bread, which are used for Western-style sandwiches, especially a sandwich with cinnamon-flavored pork pate. The result of the different culinary influences is not a jumble of cooking styles, but rather a refined collection of dishes that always keeps the ingredients in balance.

"The food flavors are built in layers," said Pham, who has made several trips to Vietnam since her family left in 1975. "We don't just put things in a pot and cook it slowly; we leave ingredients separately on the table, and you eat this with that," she said, referring to the condiments, noodles, crunchy vegetables and greens that build a dish from a serving of grilled meat or pan-seared fish.

That's certainly the case in every meal in Vietnam, from those in tiny cafes with three tables to the elegant restaurants that have reclaimed the fine dining traditions that were common in prosperous times before the war. Whether served on hard plastic plates or china, market purchases turn up in dishes where every ingredient is distinguishable.

It might be a recipe for giant shrimp bathed in a light caramel sauce that mixes salty notes and the earthy undertones of onions. It might be the popular banana blossom salad served at Hanoi's Seasons restaurant, a mix of shredded poached chicken, strips of pork tenderloin and crunchy banana blossom leaves, all tossed with Vietnamese coriander, peanuts and a vinaigrette of fish sauce and lime juice.

Another example: the delicately fried spring rolls and the platter of whole fish braised in beer, onions and herbs, served on a boat in Ha Long Bay, from a galley kitchen that consists of a single butane burner and a wok.

Floating bits of shallot and red chili pepper add color to a base of fish sauce and lime juice in many dipping sauces. A fresh spring roll's translucent wrapper shows the mosaic of green leaves of fresh basil and the pink flesh of a whole cooked shrimp even before a single bite is taken. Even soups are layered, with bright white rice noodles sharing the bowl with a flurry of onions, bean sprouts, cilantro and sliced beef, to show the diner just what's in store.

Compare and contrast - Not only are colors carefully arranged, but warm and cool temperatures frequently share the plate, as in grilled pork meatballs placed on a mound of cool rice noodles. The nuances of this food can be new even to someone like Pham, who was raised in Vietnam.

Pham was 19 when she and her family were evacuated from Saigon during the city's fall to the North Vietnamese. Her grandmother was supposed to join the family, but was prevented from going by circumstances that arose during the chaos. Left behind, too, were the flavors of the elderly woman's rice noodles with stir-fried vegetables.

Although Pham eventually opened a restaurant, Lemon Grass, in Sacramento, it wasn't until the first of several trips home in the 1990s that Pham discovered the vast nuances of Vietnamese food.

"I thought I learned so much before, but when I returned to Vietnam I realized that what I knew before was southern cooking," she said. "There is central and northern cooking that I had no idea of; during the war you didn't travel. So when I went back I was just so inspired and excited by what I saw in traveling around Vietnam." It is the same story for Quoc Luong, chef at Le Colonial on Rush Street, who left Danang with his family and American stepfather in 1975 when Luong was 9, and moved to Chebanse near Kankakee.

Adapting to a new land - Asian food markets were scarce in 1975 even in large U.S. cities, so the Luong family's dining habits underwent some changes, he said. Having to substitute soy sauce for the beloved Vietnamese fish sauce contributed to culture shock. "One friend of my mother's found three cases of fish sauce somewhere and kept it a secret from even her close friends," Luong said. "It was that hard to find. My mom continued to cook like she had, but it was not as authentic."

Luong was in his 20s before he began to investigate his culinary heritage. "Maybe it was a yearning to make some of those dishes I remembered as a child," he said. On his trips back to Vietnam, he found that ingredients had a slightly better flavor and fragrance, because they are "very, very fresh." While native-born chefs undergo a learning curve, so do their American audiences.

Restaurateur Charles Phan of The Slanted Door in San Francisco makes only the slightest changes to his menu to accommodate his customers' tastes, such as substituting filet mignon for flank steak in the restaurant's "shaking beef" dish. Yet the Vietnamese sandwich, consisting of lemon grass pork on a baguette, is a poor seller.

"We tried to serve it at lunch, but most people said they don't expect to see a sandwich in an Asian restaurant. They forget about the long history of the French in Vietnam and that sandwiches in baguettes are very popular there." While restaurants featuring true Vietnamese food--and fusion variations--are no longer a rarity, the customer base is no longer exclusively Asian. At the same time, culinary tourism to Vietnam has grown.

What travelers will find is a country still recovering economically from the effects of war and trade restrictions, but with food traditions as fresh as the catch of the day.

At the market - Making good Vietnamese food at home is possible thanks to well-stocked Vietnamese and other Asian markets in the Chicago area. Here are some of the ingredients to look for, what they are, and the Vietnamese name for them, should you need a little translation help at the store.

Banana leaves (la chuoi): These fibrous leaves are used as wrappers for steamed foods such as rice cakes; Mai Pham calls them "the plastic wrap and aluminum foil of Asia." They give a greenish tinge to their contents and are not themselves eaten. Look for frozen banana leaves at Asian markets. Thaw and wipe clean but do not rinse; remove the rib before wrapping.

Coconut milk (nuoc dua): Now available in most major supermarkets (check the Asian foods aisle), canned coconut milk should be shaken before using to blend the thin milk with the heavier coconut cream that separates and rises to the top. Purchase unsweetened coconut milk only; sweetened cream of coconut, used in tropical drinks and Latin American cooking, is a different product.

Fish sauce (nuoc mam): A pungent condiment made from fermented anchovies, fish sauce is used as freely in Vietnamese food as soy sauce is in Chinese cooking. Thai fish sauce (nam pla) is an equally good substitute.

Jicama: Vietnamese use this root vegetable raw in salads or cooked in soups and stir-fries. It has a crunchy, white flesh like a radish and the slightly sweet flavor of a fresh water chestnut. Jicama (pronounced HEE-cah-mah) also can be found at Latin groceries and some supermarkets.

Lemon grass (xa): This aromatic tropical grass, also known as citronella root, is one of the classic ingredients in Vietnamese cooking. The edible stalk, with its tart lemon flavor, is used in many dishes, particularly poultry and meat recipes. Peel the fibrous outer layer from the stalk and chop the interior as needed.

Noodles: An important part of Vietnamese soups, salads and salad rolls, the following three are the most frequently used:

Bean thread, cellophane or glass noodles (bun tau): Different names for the same thing, these noodles, made from mung bean starch, are very thin and transparent. Soak the dried noodles in warm water to soften them before using.

Rice vermicelli (bun): Made from rice flour, these very thin, white noodles are sold dried and are frequently used to stuff fresh spring rolls. Rice stick noodles (bahn pho): These flat, straight noodles also are made from rice flour and may be found fresh and dried. You will see them in soups and stir-fries.

Rice papers (bahn trang): A dough made from rice is rolled and dried into brittle, opaque sheets to make these wrappers. When moistened, they become quite soft and fragile and are typically used to make fresh spring rolls with a variety of fillings.

Shrimp paste, shrimp sauce (ruoc): A savory condiment made from fermented shrimp and salt, this is used in all kinds of dishes.

Sugar cane (mia): Peeled sugar cane is often used as skewers for seasoned purees of shrimp, which are then grilled. The fibrous stalks are chewed to extract their flavor, but should then be discarded.

Tamarind (me): The sweet-and-sour pulp from this fruit, native to Asia, may be found in packages and jars. It has a brownish color and is used to flavor a variety of foods. -- Kristin Eddy 2001, Chicago Tribune

Hanoi has an almost tropical climate. The rich soils of the Red River have made the city an agricultural center.

Co Loa, a citadel dating from the 3rd cen BC, the Temple of Lit, and the Temple of the Trung Sisters are among the historical sites. The Temple of the Trung Sisters is dedicated to two women for their leadership during the first Vietnamese movement. They led the rebellion against the Chinese Han Dynasty. A scenic feature is Lake Hoan Kiem. The city itself reflects its French heritage in its architecture. Cultural centers are the Univ of Hanoi, the Army, Revolutionary, and National Museums.

The city is a major center for communications, industry, and agriculture. Machine tools, electric generators and motors, textiles, and matches are among the products manufactured. Many small rivers make it easy for small boats to reach Hanoi. Roads and railways connect the city to its outport, Haiphong, to Kunming, China, and south to SGN. Hanoi has two airports.

Hanoi has been the scene of many political changes. Ly Thai To, the first ruler of the Ly Dynasty (1009-1225), chose Hanoi as his capital in 1010. Hanoi's status remained unchanged until 1802, when the capital was moved to Hue. Restored as the capital in 1902 by the French, Hanoi survived French rule, Jap occupation from 1940 to 1945, and extensive damage in 1965, 1968, and 1972 from bombing by the US during the Vietnam War. Pop 1 mil.

-------------------------------------------------------- What's Doing in Hanoi By TIM LARIMER Apr 23, 1995 In Hanoi's Old Quarter - a confusing collection of narrow streets, merchants' stalls and sidewalk rests - I asked an elderly man for directions to an apothecary selling Chinese medicinal herbs. The man, wearing pajamas and sandals, regular daytime wear for retired Vietnamese gentlemen, took my hand. We walked past shops selling long bamboo poles, down a street where workers were pounding out sheet metal and down another with nothing but paper for sale. Then he stopped suddenly.

The shop was here, he assured me, on a spot where a tall glass-and-chrome hotel now stood. Like many places in Hanoi, the shop had been replaced by something new. "This is what happens with doi moi," said the man, referring to Vietnam's version of perestroika, or economic renovation. "An old man like me gets lost in my own house."

Drab, dour Hanoi is showing signs of a resurgence after years of postwar depression. In the past year, rests, hotels, cafes and karaoke bars have opened, as capitalist fever has struck once-devout Communists. Construction cranes loom over the notorious Hoa Lo prison, known as the Hanoi Hilton to American POWs, which is now being cleared away to make way for a hotel. Buddhist temples are being restored after years of neglect, now that the regime is loosening its grip on religious activity.

All of this change gives the capital city a surprising energy and sense of daring. Artists experiment with abstract painting and young people play heavy-metal music; the spiritual flock back to churches and pagodas, and the decadent seek excitement at bars called bia om, with private rooms and hostesses pouring beer.

Hanoians have always taken refuge at Hoan Kiem Lake, a quiet oasis in the center of town. In the early mornings, older retirees and war veterans gravitate here to practice tai chi, jog and play badminton. At daybreak, they encounter the last of the late-night ramblings of the city's youth -- 20-something men who dash around the city racing their motorcycles, drinking whisky, showing off to girlfriends and acting like James Dean.

Events On May 8, Phu Dong, a village in the suburbs, honors the legendary child hero Giong, who as a 3-year-old supposedly fought off aggressors from the north in what is now China, one of the first of the many wars against invaders that are the crucial influences on Vietnamese culture. There will be ceremonies at the pagoda, a small parade, traditional music and a re-enactment of the famous battle. No admission, though typically a small donation is offered.

Another village on the outskirts of Hanoi, Chem, in the Tu Lien district near the Red River, will stage a festival on June 12. Villagers honor Ly Ong Trong, a Hung Dynasty war hero who fought against China. There will be music, dancing, wrestling and a procession.

To get to either festival, a car can be rented at $25 a day or $5 an hour. (Visitors can use either dollars or dong for nearly every transaction.) The more adventure-some can hop on the back of a xe om (pronounced say OME), a motorcycle taxi, for $5 to $10 a day, depending on negotiating skills. Hotels can provide directions, or write the details in Vietnamese for the driver.

In the city itself, an exhibition of works by the artist Viet Dung will run throughout June at the Red River Gallery, 71A Nguyen Du Street (tel: 229-064). Viet Dung, one of the young Vietnamese painters nicknamed the Gang of Five, combines traditional landscapes with modern technique. Open daily 9am to 8pm.

Music performances include a concert featuring the works of Phu Q.ang, a composer of contemporary love songs, May 10 to 13, at the Municipal Theater (also known as the Opera House), 1 Trang Tien, telephone 255911. And on May 19, the Theater will be the site of a musical celebration on the anniversary of Ho Chi Minh's birth, with patriotic songs, dance and dramatizations of Ho's life. Hours and prices for both events have not been set; admission will likely be about $1.80.

Sightseeing Van Mieu (Temple of Literature), a university first built in the 11th century, was recently restored on its orig site, a 15-minute ride from downtown; it honors Vietnamese scholars and Confucianism. Tablets on the backs of stone tortoises bear the names of academicians. Traditional village music is performed hourly beginning at 9 AM. English-speaking guides are available. Van Mieu, Q.oc Tu Giam Street; tel 252917. Open daily 8 AM to 6 PM; admission is 50 cents.

The exhibition on the "American war" at the Army Museum will open on April 30, the anniversary of the fall of Saigon. The crumpled remains of a B-52 shot down over Hanoi are piled under a tree on the museum grounds, alongside a surface-to-air missile launcher. Hanoi's ancient Citadel tower is also here. The Army Museum, 28A Dien Bien Phu; 234624. Open daily except Monday, 8 to 11:30 A.M. and 1:30 to 4 P.M.; admission, 90 cents.

Q.an Su Pagoda, at 73 Q.an Su, was founded on this site more than 1,000 years ago. Inside the reconstructed temple, women and monks can often be found chanting and praying. It is particularly interesting midmonth (the 15th day of the month on the lunar calendar) as thousands of Vietnamese come to pray and burn incense. Open daily from early morning to late at night. Free.

At the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, the remains of the founder of Vietnamese communism are on display in a hushed, cold gallery in a building of gray granite near the home where Ho supposedly lived during the Vietnam War. Open Tuesday through Saturday, 8 to 11 A.M.; Sunday, 7:30 to 11:30 A.M. No admission. Foreigners do not have to wait in line; guards whisk them to the front. No cameras allowed. Ho Chi Minh's home, a simple wood structure a 15-minute walk away, is also open to visitors (same hours; free).

Night Life The Q.een Bee, 42 Lang Ha, telephone 352612, a club with pop music, Vietnamese bands and $5 beers, is loud and boisterous. The dress is upscale and Western; unattached men should be prepared for hostesses to join their tables. Open 8 P.M. to 1 A.M. nightly. Cover charge: $3 for women, $5 for men.

Vietnamese in their early 20's gather at Discotheque, 23 Q.ang Trung, no telephone, a low-key dance hall with the atmosphere of a junior-high prom. Dancing is to such eclectic selections of another era as"Beer Barrel Polka" -- but usually men dance with men, women with women. Foreigners are fussed over, with young Vietnamese buying them sodas and asking for help practicing their English. Open 8:15 to 10:15 P.M. Sunday, Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday. Cover charge is less than 50 cents. Shopping A word of caution: Visitors should avoid buying antiquities; they may be confiscated at the airport.

At Khai Silk, 96 Hang Gai, silk blouses, some Western style, cost $8 to $15; robes, $8 to $22, and jackets made of raw silk, $30. This clothing shop offers probably the best quality in Hanoi. Down the street, Tan My sells embroidered blouses in silk or cotton for $5 to $8 and tablecloths for $10, all of good quality.

The owner will demonstrate the musical instruments at Pham Bich Huong, 11 Hang Non, a shop that makes and sells drums, lutes, zithers, xylophones and other instruments for $2 to $20.

Q.ang Ceramics, 93 Ba Trieu, sells vases, dishes and lamps with a traditional blue-and-white pattern and modern designs ($1 to $15). A meter of fabric designed by Montagnard tribes sells for $5 to $10 at Thanh Nga, 40 Hang Manh.

The art at Salon Natasha, 30 Hang Bong, is produced by young Vietnamese, some of whom use record albums, cigarette packages, beer cans and bamboo fans as their media. An artist is usually at work here and will stop to chat. Chart: "Vital Statistics" lists travel information and statistics on Hanoi. (Sources: Absolute Asia, Vietnam Liaison Office, Times Books World Weather Guide) Map of Hanoi.

In the fall of 1010, King Ly Thai To (Ly Cong Uan) moved the capital from Hoa Lu to Dai La. On the way, the king saw a vision of a golden dragon ascending from the Red river ( song Hong). The King decided to change Dai La to Thang Long (Ascending Dragon). Thang Long remained the capital city until the end of the Tran dynasty when in 1397, the capital city was moved to Thanh Hoa -Tay Do (Western Capital) and Thang Long became Dong Do (Eastern Capital).

Vietnam was invaded by China in 1407, and the city was renamed Dong Quan. In 1428, after ten years of fighting, Le Loi liberated Vietnam and renamed the city Dong Kinh. In 1527, the city was renamed Thang Long. In 1802 when King Gia Long (Nguyen Dynasty) moved the capital city to Hue, the name Thang Long remained but, Long no longer means dragon, Long in this case means prosperity. Ha Noi, was the name given to the city by King Minh Mang in 1831. Ha means river and Noi means within - Ha Noi means within the river.

Originally built in 1070 in the Ly dynasty, the temple is a shrine to Confucius and his disciples responsible for spreading his teachings. Six years later, Quoc Tu Giam or School for the sons of the Nation was established for the princes. The school later admitted sons of mandarins and finally commoners were allowed to attend but, only after they passed a rigorous examination at the regional level. In 1484, Van Mieu became a place to memorialize the most brilliant scholars of the nation.

In 1484, King Le Thanh Tong decreed the names of all those who have attained the doctoral ranks in the national examination be inscribed on stone stelae carried on the backs of giant tortoises. In all, 2,313 individuals were awarded the title of tien si. However, detailed records were kept only between 1442 and 1779 . According to records, there should be 112 stelae in all but only 82 stelae are still standing. Each represents a single examination year. The name and native village of the students who were awarded the title Tien Si or doctor laureate were inscribed on the stone. Tien si was not a diploma of graduation from the royal college. This title was awarded to those who have successful passed the 4 royal examinations. Scholars from all over Vietnam could participate only if they had passed the regional exam.

Courtyard of the Sages is located beyond the Garden of Stelae. Entrance to the courtyard is through Dai Thanh Mon or Gate of Great Success. The Great House of Ceremonies is located here. It was here that all new doctor laureates would come to pay respect to Confucius. The king would also come to pay homage to the great teacher at Dai Thanh Mon. Inscribed on a wooden panel above the altar are the words "Teacher of Ten Thousand Generations".

Behind the Great House of Ceremonies is the Sanctuary, with statue of Confucius flanked by his four closest disciples, Nhan Tu, Tu Tu, Tang Tu, and Manh-Tu (Mencius).

Quoc Tu Giam or School for the Sons of the nation is located in the last courtyard. During the time when Van Mieu was used as a school, this area housed classrooms, housing facilities and a print shop. When the university was moved to Hue, Quoc Tu Giam was turned into a shrine to Confucius' parents called Khai Thanh.

Chua Mot Cot - One Pillar Pagoda Chua Mot Cot or the One Pillar Pagoda has become the symbol of Vietnamese rich culture and history. The pagoda was built in the reign of king Ly Thai Tong (1028-1054). According to legend, in his dream, in 1049, the king saw a vision of Phat Ba Quan Am - Kwan Yin. She led him to a shrine in the middle of a lotus pond. When he woke up, he consulted with his court and decided to replicate the shrine in his dream to dedicate it to Kwan Yin. The One Pillar Pagoda resembles a giant lotus blossom.

Museum of Fine Arts Located at 66 Nguyen Thai Hoc Street, the museum began receiving visitors on June 24, 1966. One of Vietnam's comprehensive display of architectures, sculptures, drawings, and fine arts is housed at the museum. The museum also contains displays of the ethnic minority people in Vietnam. Stone ax blades, stone sculptures, statues and ornaments, Muong skirts, belts, and Tay Nguyen bronze rings are some of the few items on display. <Picture><Picture>Visitors are able to see works of art dating to the stone and bronze ages. Stone rings, earings and necklaces are evidence of a civilization dating back 2,000 to 3,000 years. The bronze statues, drums, and ornaments on display bring the visitors closer to that part of history that is rich with tradition and culture.

Lakes: Bach Thao Lakes, Bay Mau Lake, Giang Vo Lake

Ho Hoem Kiem (Ho Guom) - Lake of the Returned Sword was once a part of the Red river (song Hong). Through thousands of years of changes in the geography, the lake moved eastward to its present position many kilometers from the river. The lake was once called Luc Thuy or Green Water because the water was green year round. In the fifteen century, the lake was named Ho Hoan Kiem, based of a legend that is quite similar to King Arthur and the Lady of the Lake's legend.

While fighting against the Chinese, King Le Thai To has in his possession a very valuable sword. After 10 years of continuous struggle, the King finally defeated the Chinese and reclaimed Vietnam's independence. One day, while sailing on lake Luc Thuy, a large turtle appeared. The king drew his sword and pointed at the creature. The turtle immediately grab hold of the sword with its mouth and submerged. The king mourned the lost of such valuable sword, demanded that the lake be emptied and dredged. Both the turtle and the sword were not found. The king realizing that the gods must have lent him the sword to drive back the enemy, but now that Vietnam is free, the sword must be returned. King Le Thai To named the lake Ho Hoan Kiem or Lake of the Returned Sword.

Since the reign of king Le Trung Hung (XVI century), every king in the Le dynasty, and Lord Trinh have all contributed to the beautification of the lake. Lord Trinh Giang built Khanh Thuy shrine on Ngoc island on the north end of the lake. He also had the two man made hills built across from Ngoc son Shrine.

At the end of the Le Dynasty, Khanh Thuy was destroyed by Chieu Thong. A philanthropist named Tin Trai built Ngoc Son pagoda. Ngoc Son pagoda was renamed Ngoc Son shrine during the reign of Thieu Tri III (1843) because it was no longer a Buddhist shrine. Instead, Ngoc Son is a shrine to Van Xuong, a deity, in charge of literature and the various tests required to become a mandarin. It is also a shrine to general Tran Hung Dao, a national hero responsible for many victories against the Mongols.

Since then Ngoc Son has gone through many renovations, one of which was the addition of Thap But (Pen Tower) on the hill which was once called Dao Tai. Three words inscribed on the tower "Ta Thien Thanh" or "write on blue sky". Inside the gate a pool resembling the shape of an ink well was added. Beyond the ink well is The Huc bridge or "where the sun light is absorbed". The bridge leads to Dac Nguyet Lau or "Moon Light tower" - Ngoc Son shrine. Beyond the gates to the shrine, there are two walls called bang Rong and bang Ho (dragon and tiger slate) where the names of those who passed the national test are inscribed.

On the SW end of the lake is Thap Rua. It was rumored that king Le Thanh Tong used to fish here. Lord Trinh also built the structure to house his entourage while visiting the lake.

Koan Kiem Lake - Center of Hanoi between old (north) and new (south) parts of city. Little isle in center. Nice place to walk around and hang. Good cuisine, gotta look.

Thien Quang Lake

Tru Bach Lake

West Lake (Ho Tay) is the largest of all the lakes in Ha Noi. The lake is on the NW part of the city. Long ago, the lake was a branch of the Red river but later, as the river changed course, the lake remained a body of water just west of the river. There are many legends assoc with it. The most popular is the legend of the golden buffalo.

As the story goes, there once was a medicine man who was a giant. He is well known in Vietnam for his medicine practice and the king often used him to treat the royal family. His fame reached China and he was invited to China to treat the king. He was successful where others have failed so the king was going to reward him with great wealth. He refused offerings of gold and only requested that the king give him all the black copper in the king's vault. The king agreed and the giant left for Vietnam with vast amounts of black copper.

In Vietnam the giant molded a giant bell of black copper. The giant rang the bell and the sound resonated all the way to China. In the king's vault there was a golden buffalo. Upon hearing the sound of the bell, the buffalo came to life (because he thought that his mother was calling him) and charged southward. Upon reaching Ha Noi, the buffalo trampled the land in the area near Red river. Over the years, this area filled with water and became Ho Tay or West Lake.

Ho Tay has always been an area for vacationing royalties. When Ha Noi was still the capital city, the kings from the Ly and Tran dynasty built summer homes along the lake. In the north end of the lake there are several villages famous for their flowers and fruits plantations. Most famous is Nghi Tam village, the birth place of Ba Huyen Thanh Quan, one of Vietnam's premier Poetess. <Picture><Picture>Today, many of the summer homes built by kings of yesteryears are now shrines and temples.

Phu Tay Ho is one of the more popular shrine on the shore of Ho Tay. During the first and fifteenth day of the lunar month, people from all over Ha Noi pour to the shrine to pay respect to the deities. On these days, the roads are filled with people dressed in colorful attire heading to the narrow road leading to the shrine. Phu Tay Ho is also famous for the Bun Oc (escargot vermicelli soup) and Banh Tom (shrimp cakes) sold in stalls along the way.


From 1883 this was the French capital of Indochine and they built their ghetto in the SE of Hoan Kiem lake of which little remains. 100km from sea on Red River.

Hanoi is the capital of Vietnam, buit in 1010. About one mil people live there. A beautiful city, with many French colonial bldgs the old part of the city has a special charm, with many shops virtually spilling their goods into the streets. If you want to buy something you have to know in what street it is sold, ie, there is a shoe street, a noodle shop street, a clothes street, a funeral articles street, etc. Its streets are lined with trees, giving the city a green colour and providing shade.

Hanoians are perhaps not as easy going as people in Saigon, but they are more hospitable and friendlier. A good place to meet people is in the parks at 6am doing exercise as Tai-Chi. Many new houses are being built, but typical Vietnamese, some 2.5-6m wide and more than 40m deep. They have 4-6 floors, with a balcony on each floor facing the street. Old and new bldgs integrate easily, never destroying the picture of the 'old' town.

Attractions include the Temple of Literature (Van Mieu, open between 8:30-16:30), Hoan Kiem lake district (the old center, with many beautiful, small shops), the St Joseph's Cathedral, the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, the Ho Chi Minh House, the one pillar pagode just next to it and the Historical Museum (VND 4000), Air Force museum.

One of the most exceptional evenings I spent in Hanoi was the visit to the water puppet theater, Kim Dong Theatre at 57 Dinh Tien Hoang Street. After an intro of music, the show started. It is actually a series of scenes from Vietnamese everyday life, depicted by beautifully carved and painted puppets. They are held on long sticks by people standing in the water behind a bamboo screen. Admission was USD 2 or USD 4 with cassette, and they charge USD 1 for photographing.

The Hoa Lu Prison (Hanoi Hilton) was a drab triangle. There was nothing to see and photographing is prohibited. It was dismanteled in Mar 95 and the only thing that remains is the outer wall. There are now two large bldgs called the Hanoi Tower under construction.

For those interested in steam trains, there are some old locomotives in the rail yard. The best bet is the Giap Bat station at 14:00, when there should be one.

There are many tailor-shops in Hanoi. One of the better, with good prices is the Nice at 110 Tran Phu. The tailor anything overnight.

Eating In October 1996 a great new cafe opened. It's called Love Planet and is owned by Mr. Liem, the same person that founded the Queens in 1993 and Lonely Planet in 1995. It's at 98 Ma May Street, Tel 8284864. The food is good, but service is not exactly fast. Rooms are from USD 3 to 10. Tel 8284864, Fax 8280913. Email loveplanet@hn.vnn.vn

A good place for seafood is Restaurant - Bar 92 at 92 Mai Hac De Str. When we (5 Westeners) showed up, we were led upstairs to a big table. There they began to show us what they were offering. To cut the tedious selection process short, we said how much we wanted to pay and that they shoud just bring a good selection of their specialities, which they happily did.

The Bittet at 51 Hang Buom has fish soup for VND 7000 and soft beefsteak with lots of garlic for VND 12000.

Excellent Chinese and Vietnamese dishes are available in Kinh Hoa restaurant at 6 Le Thai To Str., but this place is a bit more pricey.

A good place is the restaurant at the intersection of Minh Viet and Can Go streets. It has a balcony where you can eat.

On Dinh Lien Street, there are several good restaurants with mainly Vietnamese guests.

The Cha Ca Restautant at 14 Cha Ca Street is one of the best known restaurants in town, and it makes use of this fact with exorbitant prices that are several times what you would pay at other places (VND 60'000!) They offer only one dish, fried fish, prepared with speed rather than care. Not recommended anymore.

Just opposite the Nice shop at 110 Tran Phu is a good restaurant with a nice balcony.

Another nice balcony overlooking the Ho Kiem Lake is provided by the Five Royal Fish Restaurant (Ngu Ngu Ngu) at 16 Le Thai To Street.

Very popular are the traveller's cafes. They all have western style as well as simple Vietnamese style dishes from as little as 3000 VND, although they increased their prices lately. They all organise tours around Hanoi (see tours section). There are the two Darling cafes in Hang Quat (the Old Darling and the Real Darling), the Queen Cafe at 65 Hang Bac (which is a big expat hangout), Lonely Planet and Love Planet, that belong to the same person, Kolo-friendship cafe at 24 Mai Hac De Str., Tourist's Meeting Cafe, 59 Ba Trieu st (corner with Tran Quoc Toan), the Tin Tin and the Green Bamboo. The Green Bamboo is run by the original runner and inventor of the first traveller's cafe, the Darling Cafe. It also has a book exchange service.

The Tell, managed by a Swiss, Urs Hauser, serves real Swiss food, with ingredients imported directly from Switzerland.

The French style bakery and restaurant Hoa Sua, which was near the opera has moved on November 7th 1996 to 81 Tho Nhuom Street. Recommended.

On the southern border of Lake Hoan Kiem is the Au Lac Caffee. There are many tourists, but the coffee and especially the cappucino is recommended.

A Japanese Restaurant can be found near the Polonez Hotel. From the hotel turn right; it's the second street.

(Michael) A nice restaurant in Hanoi is Ngu Ngu Ngu (aka Five Royal Fist) at 16 Le Thai To street, on the second floor of a theatre with nice views of Hoan Kiem Lake. The place caters to ex pats, fills up quickly and serves everything from nicely prepared Vietnamese food to pizza, steak, sandwiches, burgers, etc. (The fried potatoes are superb.) We were there on the 20th anniversary of the reunification (April 30th) and had a wonderful view of the fireworks display on Hoan Kiem Lake.

The Little Italian has closed, but another restaurant in the same street has taken over crew and most of the menu. (Lotta and Johan) Sad to say, but the best restaurant we found was not vietnamese but Italian. Anyone who yearns for western food should go to A Little Italian at 81 Tho Nhuom St. Evenings, it's better to make a reservation, phone 258167. They have wonderful pizza and pasta dishes. It's quite expensive though - most of the pastas cost 4$50.

Internet: Vietnam Datacommunication Centre 1, 18 Nguyen Du Hanoi. mailcc.vdc1@bdvn.vnmail.vnd.net, Tel 8267209.

Budget is housing somewhat a hassle due to dispersion. Especially Minihotels (10), in old qtr and around lake. Anh Htl II, 43 Nguyn Truong To St. Energy Htl, 30 Ly Thai To St. Higher is cheeper.


\5 Hanoi services, eat, sleep

Airlines Aeroflot, 4 Trang Thi (825 6742); Air France, 1 Ba Trieu (825 3484); Cathay Pacific, 27 Ly Thuong Kiet (826 7298); China Southern Airlines, Rm 102 Binh Minh Htl, 27 Ly Thai To (826 9233); Japan Airlines, 1 Ba Trieu (826 6693); Lao Aviation, 41 Quang Trung (826 6538); Malaysia Airlines, Hotel Sofitel Metropole, 15 Ngo Quyen (826 8820); Pacific Airlines, 100 Le Duan (851 5356); Singapore Airlines, 17 Ngo Quyen (826 8888); Thai Intl, 25 Ly Thuong Kiet (826 6893); Vietnam Airlines, 1 Quang Trung for domestic and intl services (829 2118), and with sales agents at 60 Nguyen Du (825 5194) and 30a Ly Thuong Kiet (826 9130).

Alliance Franaise 42 Yet Kieu (826 6970; Mon-Sat 8am-noon & 2-6pm). Cultural programme of films, concerts and exhibitions, plus library, journals and TV room. Membership $2 (2 photos and proof of identity required).

Banks and exchange Vietcombank head office is at 47-49 Ly Thai To, for all services including cash withdrawals on credit cards and telegraphic transfers. Sub-office at 78 Nguyen Du and branches at 42a Ly Thuong Kiet and 50 Trang Tien. Other banks with counter facilities are: ANZ Bank, 14 Le Thai To; Asia Pacific Bank, Van Phuc; Bank of America, 27 Ly Thuong Kiet; Citibank, 17 Ngo Quyen; Crdit Lyonnais, 10 Trang Thi; Indovina, 88 Hai Ba Trung; Standard Chartered, 27 Ly Thai To; VID Public Bank, 194 Tran Quan Khai. NB: Unusually persistent money changers around the GPO offer suspiciously high rates; they are running a scam and are best avoided.

Bike rental Try the following for cheap rates (around $1 per day) and reliable machines: in the Old Quarter, 31 and 33 Ta Hien; in the French Quarter, go down the alley beside the Bodega Hotel on Trang Tien, or to Memory Caf at 33 Tran Hung Dao.

Bike repair You'll find someone to repair pedal-bikes on virtually every street corner. For motorbikes, try Phu Doan, just behind the cathedral, or Thinh Yen at the south end of Pho Hu, where you can also buy locally made helmets ($40).

Books and bookshops Apart from small outlets in top-class hotels, Trang Tien is the main area for books, with several state-run bookshops plus stalls selling English-language publications on Vietnam, including photocopies of out-of-print editions together with pirated guides and phrasebooks. Kids also peddle books, postcards and maps here and around Hoan Kiem Lake. The government publishing house, The Gioi Publishers (formerly Foreign Languages Publishing House), has an outlet at 46 Tran Hung Dao. Otherwise, the best-stocked shops are Hanoi Bookshop, 34 Trang Tien; Fahasa, 22b Hai Ba Trung; Xunhasaba, 32 Hai Ba Trung. Green Bamboo, at 42 Nha Chung, also has a book exchange.

Car rental Try ATC (826 4007), Fuji Cab (825 5452), Mansfield TOSERCO (826 9444), or Vicarrent (825 9027). Cinema Asian and Western films, in either English or Vietnamese language, are screened nightly at Fansland, 84 Ly Thuong Kiet (825 7484). Vietnamese films plus the occasional Hollywood US$75-150 (825-1,650,000 dong) pic show at New Age Cinema, 45 Hang Bai (824 5376). Tickets sell out quickly, so book ahead.

Courier Services DHL has its main office at 49 Nguyen Thai Hoc (826 7020), and a more useful branch office in the GPO (825 7124); TNT is at 23 Trang Thi (825 7750).

Embassies and consulates Australia, 66 Ly Thuong Kiet (825 2763); Belgium, 48 Nguyen Thai Hoc (823 5005); Cambodia, 71 Tran Hang Dao (825 3788); Canada, 31 Hung Vuong (823 5432); China, 46 Hoang Dieu (823 5569); Denmark, 19 Dien Bien Phu (823 1888); Finland, B3b Giang Vo (825 6754); France, 57 Tran Hung Dao (825 2719); Germany, 29 Tran Phu (845 3836); Israel, 68 Nguyen Thai Hoc (826 6919); Italy, 9 Le Phung Hieu (825 6246); Laos, 40 Quang Trung (826 8724); Myanmar (Burma), A3 Van Phuc (825 3369); Netherlands, D1 Apt 105, Van Phuc (843 0605); New Zealand, 32 Hang Bai (824 1481); Singapore, 41-43 Tran Phu (823 3966); Sweden, 2 Road 358, Van Phuc (825 4824); Switzerland, 77b Kiem Ma (823 2019); Thailand, 63-65 Hoang Dieu (823 5092); UK, 16 Ly Thuong Kiet (825 2349); USA, 7 Lang Ha (843 1500).

Emergencies Dial 14 in case of fire or 15 for an ambulance; better still, get a Vietnamese-speaker to call on your behalf.

Export licences for antiques and other items of "cultural or historical significance" are issued at 51 Ngo Quyen (Mon-Sat 8-11.30am & 1.30-4.30pm); the office is first on the left inside the gates.

Friends of Hanoi is an Australian foundation set up to co-ordinate conservation work, raise funds and conduct restoration projects in the city. Memberships are available at 90 Tho Nhuom (824 6895, fax 824 6890).

Helicopters Northern Flight Service run a weekly jaunt out to Ha Long Bay, using Russian choppers. If that doesn't put you off, the price might: $175 for the return trip. Departures every Sunday at 8am, back at 4.15pm. Contact Hotel Sofitel Metropole on 826 6919, ext 8015.

Hospitals and clinics The emergency assistance company, AEA International at 4 Tran Hung Dao, provides routine care to members and travellers (821 3555; 9am-6pm; $65 consultation fee). Alternatively, there's the Swedish Clinic, 358 Van Phuc, opposite the Swedish Embassy (845 2464; Mon & Fri 9-11.30am & 1.30-4.30pm, Tues-Thurs 1.30-4.30pm; $90 consultation fee), which offers a 24-hr service and dental care. Of the major hospitals, Bach Mai (International) Hospital on Giai Phong has English-speaking doctors, but go to the Intensive Care Unit (869 3525; $10-20) rather than the International Department. Viet-Duc Hospital, 40 Trang Thi (825 3531; $10-25) also offers 24-hr emergency services, surgery, intensive care and has English-speaking doctors.

Immigration police In emergencies, such as lost or stolen passports, and for information on visa extensions or change of exit point contact the Immigration Department of Police at 40 Hang Bai (Mon-Sat 8-11.30am & 1.30-4pm). Their branch office at 89 Tran Hung Dao (Mon-Sat 8am-12.30pm & 1-5pm) may also be able to help.

Language courses The Vietnamese Language Centre of Hanoi Foreign Language College, 1 Pham Ngu Lao (826 2468), offers practical instruction for groups or individuals from $5 per hour. The centre also arranges exchanges. Laundry Most hotels and guesthouses have a laundry service, while top hotels now offer dry cleaning. Alternatively, try one of the following low-priced laundries (giat la): 59 Hang Be; 39 Ma May; 17 Trang Thi; 55 Nguyen Du.

Left luggage Real Darling Caf, at 33 Hang Quat, runs a left-luggage service for a small fee.

Newspapers and magazines Foreign-language papers and magazines are on sale at several bookshops, at stalls on Trang Tien or outside the GPO, and in top-class hotels of which the Metropole's boutique offers the best selection. Hawkers also peddle secondhand magazines around Hoan Kiem Lake.

Pharmacies Both AEA and the Swedish Clinic (see "Hospitals and clinics" above) have pharmacies. Of the local retail outlets Nguyen Luan at 3 Trang Thi stocks the widest selection of imported medicines. Traditional medicines can be bought on Lan Ong, or there's a small clinic at 27 Dinh Tien Hoang, under the Daewoo building.

Post office The GPO occupies a whole block at the south end of Dinh Tien Hoang. International postal services, including parcel dispatch (7am-noon & 1-8pm) and poste restante, are located in the southernmost hall; next entrance up is for telephone and fax services (6am-10pm); finally, the main entrance leads to general mail services and money exchange (cash only). Useful sub-post offices are at 66 Trang Tien, 66 Luong Van Can, 18 Nguyen Du, D2 Giang Vo and at Hanoi train station.

Sports Some big hotels open their facilities to non-residents: for tennis and swimming try the Hanoi Hotel or Thang Long Hotel. The north's first golf course (18 holes; open to non-members on weekdays) is 45km west of Hanoi at King's Island Golf Resort; information and memberships from 4 Tran Hung Dao (826 0342). The exclusive Hanoi Club at 76 Yen Phu (823 8115) is soon to open beside West Lake, offering all sorts of goodies - squash, windsurfing, gym plus bars and restaurants - to members and guests only.

Taxis To call a metered cab use one of the following numbers, listed in descending price order and level of reliability: Hanoi Taxi (853 5252); Red Taxi (835 3686); CP Taxi (824 1999); PT Taxi (853 3171).

Tour agencies The travellers' cafes organize bargain-basement tours and fulfil a multitude of other functions, including car rental, visa services and airport transport. Though Green Bamboo is the most upmarket, there's little to choose between the big four: Green Bamboo, 42 Nha Chung (826 8752, fax 826 4949); Lonely Planet, 33 Hang Be (825 0974, fax 825 0000); Queen, 65 Hang Bac (826 0860, fax 825 0000); and Real Darling, 33 Hang Quat (826 9386, fax 825 6562). Reliable mid-price private agents include Ann's Tourist, 26 Yet Kieu (822 0018, fax 822 9403) and Especen Tourist Company, 79e Hang Trong (826 6856, fax 826 9612), while an interesting addition to the scene is state-run Educulture Tours at 14b Phan Chu Trinh (825 1551, fax 826 2468), whose profits are ploughed back into preservation projects. So far they run a Red River boat tour, not stunningly exciting though it does include Bat Trang pottery village, and are planning guided cyclo tours around the Old Quarter and French streets of Hanoi. Of the big, government agencies try Vietnamtourism, 30a Ly Thuong Kiet (826 4154, fax 825 7583) or Vinatour, 54 Nguyen Du (825 2986, fax 825 2707): their tours cover the whole country, but are the most expensive.

Restaurants, Food:

French Quarter - Hanoi French Quarter Al Fresco, 23l Hai Ba Trung. Relaxed, Australian-run place with a pleasant, back balcony on the first floor. The menu is good-quality, American international (burgers, salads, nachos and pizzas), all served in hefty portions.

Le Bistro, 34 Tran Hung Dao. Justly rated restaurant in a mellow villa with a French-Vietnamese menu. Service tends to the erratic at busy times, but quality food, good atmosphere and moderate prices more than make up for it.

Club Opera, 59 Ly Thai To (826 8802). Separate Asian and European restaurants in a revamped villa. Toasted sandwiches, burgers and steaks tempt the lunchtime crowd downstairs, while upstairs offers relaxed evenings with some of Hanoi's best Vietnamese cooking. Prices are surprisingly affordable.

Gustave's, 17 Trang Tien (825 0625). Named after Gustave Eiffel of tower fame. This very Parisian first-floor restaurant, light and airy yet formal, serves a lunchtime set menu plus expensive  la carte of French cuisine and crpes. Jazz piano or French favourites nightly in the bar (7.30-11pm).

Hoa Sua (La Boulangerie), 6 Phan Chu Trinh (824 0448). Excellent, French-style food - vegetable terrine, quiche and salad, chocolate profiteroles - created by trainee chefs and served in the garden and front room of a villa. Hoa Su is rumoured to be moving to larger premises on Tho Nhuom Street, near the Eden Hotel. For the moment, reservations are essential at lunchtime. 8am-7pm.

Huong Lan, 20 Ngo Quyen. Excellent Vietnamese cuisine at moderate prices is the main attraction at this second-floor restaurant; try to get a table out on the balcony for more atmosphere. As you leave, it'll be hard to resist a Baskin-Robbins ice cream from next door.

Indochine, 16 Nam Ngu (824 6097). Food and decor of unusual quality make this restaurant a favourite of the expat community, though at busy times service can be slow. Well-presented Vietnamese specialities, from hot and sour soups to steamed fish and prawn on sugar cane, served either in the tastefully decorated colonial house or its courtyard. Reservations are essential in the evenings. Live Vietnamese folk music Mon, Wed, Fri & Sat from 7.30pm.

Memory Caf, 33b Tran Hung Dao. Flowers and classical music make this small, friendly caf opposite Le Bistro a popular venue. Standard snack menu, but recommended for its fruitshakes and yoghurts.

Mother's Pride, 53 Ba Trieu (822 8055). Malay curries and Singaporean specialities rub shoulders with toasted sandwiches and ice cream. Clean, bright and popular, with only a handful of tables.

Nang Tam, 79a Tran Hung Dao (826 6140). Small, elegant vegetarian restaurant named after a Vietnamese Cinderella-character. Goi bo, a main-course salad of banana flower, star fruit and pineapple, is recommended. No MSG used.

Ngu Thien Hu, 58 Trang Thi. Hu specialities are the order of the day in this unfussy restaurant. Its two extensive, set-menus offer a good value sampler of Hu dishes, including banh beo and banh khoai. Quan Hu, 6 Ly Thuong Kiet. The more highly rated of two restaurants serving Hu cuisine on opposite sides of the street. This one gets votes for open-air seating and reasonable prices. If you can't get to Hu, try one of these.

Quan Sake, 23d Hai Ba Trung, with Quan Sake II at 43b Ngo Quyen. This authentic, tiny Japanese restaurant evokes downtown Tokyo with its informal, intimate atmosphere. Set menus provide the best deal, and the tempura is especially recommended.

Restaurant 006, 6 Trang Tien. A well-rated Vietnamese restaurant on the main drag. Forget the decor, but the food comes up trumps, though you might want to steer clear of the house speciality - "carp from the immortal oven" - that comes out alive.

Restaurant 3, 3 Dien Bien Phu. Cheap, traditional Vietnamese place beside the train tracks, where the remnants of Hanoi's expat Russian community come to croon melancholy songs. Beware large quantities of MSG in the soups, though.

Restaurant 75, 75 Tran Quoc Toan. Well-rated Vietnamese food and a warm welcome are assured at this converted villa on the southern edge of the district. Eating here won't break the bank, either.

Tam Tu, 84 Ly Thuong Kiet. Cheap and cheerful Thai food, inc green curries and pad thai fried noodles, served-up in a warren of small rooms. Friendly service and good portions compensate for claustrophobia.

Hotels, GH:

Budget lodging can be scarce in Hanoi, especially between Jun-Sep, but many people rent rooms and with some searching you should find something. Whatever your budget, you'll pay more for lodging in Hanoi than elsewhere in the country. Budget housing is somewhat a hassle due to dispersion. Especially Minihotels (10), in old qtr and around lake, but there is no real shortage of lodging in HAN, although it could well be possible that the one you wanted to go to is full at the time. Mini-Hotels cost usually between USD 15-25.

There are two main areas for budget accommodation. One is the Hoan Kiem district (also known as the old town), just north of the Hoan Kiem lake. It is very pretty, with lots of charm. The other is just south of the lake. Hotels seem to be a bit cheaper than in the old part, but this also depends on your bargaining success.

Dozens of minihotels, small inns with less than 10 rooms, have opened in the late 90s - evidence of the march of capitalism. Unfortunately, there is no central booking service yet. Prices range from $10-$100, but are always negotiable, if not go elsewhere.

BEST WAY to use this reference is to walk around and find a place you like and see what this has to say about it. Use it to find a place as a last resort.

Thuy Tien, 1-C Tong Dan, tele 244775, is a new 60-room htl near the center of town and the old quarter. Rooms have satellite TV and direct-dial tels; $82-$179 double.

The Flower Hotel, 97 Nguyen Truong To, 237025, is a bit out of the way, but its 21 rooms are decorated with Oriental rosewood furniture and are quiet. Satellite TV and phones in the rooms; $60 to $110 double occupancy.

Budget: Especen, 79-E Hang Trong, 251659, combines 10 small inns in the old qtr, 66 rms. Places are spare but clean, with pvt baths; $10-$25 for a double.

Luxury: Sofitel Metropole, 15 Ngo Q.yen, 266919, with 109 rms, is the hub of expatriate business activity in Hanoi, and an island of comfort and service. The bar is a good place to relax, it's easy to forget this is Vietnam. Rates only: $247 (dbl) to $531 (exec suite).

Anh Htl II, 43 Nguyn Truong To St. Energy Htl, 30 Ly Thai To St. Higher is cheeper.

Old Quarter and West of Hoan Kiem Lake - A Dong, 46 Luong Ngoc Quyen (825 6948, fax 828 2601). A spread of acceptable lodging, on a quiet backstreet. Under US$10-15 (under 110-165,000 dong).

Anh Dao, 37 Ma May (826 7151, fax 828 2008). Good-value middle-market place on an interesting street. IDD, satellite TV and air-con are standard. US$15-30.

Binh Minh, 50 Hang Be (826 7356, fax 824 7183). Its good location, fair prices and relaxed atmosphere make this old hotel a popular first-stop for many travellers.

A wide range of rooms are on offer, including some that are dingy and just adequate at the cheaper end. They can also help with tours and transport. US$10-15 (110-165,000 dong).

Continental, 24 Hang Vai (828 2897, fax 828 2989). A smart, medium-sized hotel, with good-value rooms at a variety of prices, all equipped with air-con, satellite TV and IDD phone. US$15-30 (165-330,000 dong). Dong Xuan, 3 Thanh Ha (825 3290). It's worth searching out this homely, cheap hotel in a colourful area just south of Dong Xuan market. Rooms are better than at many budget places. US$10-15 (110-165,000 dong).

Especen Hotels, 79e Hang Trong (826 6856, fax 826 9612); US$10-75 (110-825,000 dong). A group of 11 private mini-hotels owned by Especen Tourist Company, mostly located in the Old Quarter. They offer reliable budget and intermediate accommodation, though rooms are sometimes overpriced. Cheapest in the vicinity is No 4 at 16 Trung Yen (826 1512; US$10-15 (110-165,000 dong), down a back-alley past pho stalls and traditional medicine shops; rooms are uninspiring but fulfil the basic needs.

Galaxy, 1 Phan Dinh Phung (828 2888, fax 828 2466). New luxury hotel on the Old Quarter's northern fringe. Its 50 tastefully decorated rooms and professional service justify the 3-star prices. US$75-150 (825-1,650,000 dong).

Green Bamboo, 42 Nha Chung (826 8752, fax 826 4949). There's a handful of comfortable rooms at this doyen of the travellers' cafs, but they're often booked-out. US$10-15 (110-165,000 dong).

Hang Trong, 54 Hang Trong (825 1346, fax 826 7120). A small, popular hotel with well-equipped rooms at a good price for the area. US$15-30 (165-330,000 dong). Ho Guom, 76 Hang Trong (825 2225, fax 824 3564). A surprisingly smart but low-key business hotel tucked off the main street. The simply decorated, light rooms make a pleasant change though cheaper rooms are cramped. US$30-75 (330-825,000 dong).

Hotel Mini, 24 Nha Chung (826 9823, fax 825 0099). Very mini mini-hotel with quirky decor but clean rooms - and a great roof-top room with views over town. US$10-15 (110-165,000 dong).

Mai Phuong, 32 Hang Be (826 5341). This friendly hotel offers a few cheap rooms maintained to reasonable standards. Fair prices mean that it's often full. Under US$10 (under 110,000 dong).

My Lan, 1 Hang Hom (826 0880, fax 828 5871). Choose between three grades of accommodation, from cheap windowless affairs to spacious rooms with balcony, at this clean, well-placed mini-hotel. Standard equipment at all levels includes TV, telephone and air-con. US$10-15 (110-165,000 dong).

Nam Phuong, 16 Bao Khanh (825 8030, fax 825 8964). One of a group of reasonably priced hotels sharing the same name. This one offers basic rooms in an excellent location near Hoan Kiem Lake. US$10-15 (110-165,000 dong).

Ngoc Minh II (Ocean Hotel), 47 Luong Ngoc Quyen (826 8459, fax 828 3184). This small, well-kept hotel boasts 7 uncluttered rooms of generous proportions, all with satellite TV and IDD phones. US$15-30 (165-330,000 dong).

Orchid, 28 Cau Go (824 9571). A welcoming, family-run guesthouse found at the far end of the entrance hall. Its handful of rooms are big and bright. US$10-15 (110-165,000 dong).

Queen Caf, 65 Hang Bac (826 0860, fax 825 0000). Up there on the backpacker circuit for its well-maintained dormitory accommodation plus a few small, partitioned rooms. Under US$10 (under 110,000 dong).

Real Darling Caf, 33 Hang Quat (826 9386, fax 825 6562). The dormitory beds and basic double rooms here are well known as the cheapest accommodation in town, so reservation is a must. Under US$10 (under 110,000 dong).

Royal, 20 Hang Tre (824 4230, fax 824 4234). One of Hanoi's swisher hotels, incongruously located on a grey backstreet. It boasts a business centre, satellite TV, in-house movies, IDD, expensive restaurants, plus nightclub, and plans are afoot for another 70 rooms, tennis court and swimming pool. Over US$150 (over 1,650,000 dong).

Ta Hien, 22 Ta Hien (825 5888). Popular budget hotel with 11 small rooms above a busy caf. The rooms are basic but clean, all with bathrooms and some with air-con, while those upstairs are less stuffy. Under US$10-15 (under 110-165,000 dong).

Thanh Ha, 34 Hang Ga (824 6496, fax 828 2248). A well-run hotel providing good value accommodation over on the west edge of the Old Quarter. Facilities are standard for a mid-range hotel, including TV, air-con and IDD phone. US$15-30 (165-330,000 dong).

Thanh Long Guesthouse, 73 Ma May (824 4425). A few clean rooms at reasonable prices on a quiet street. Cheapest rooms come with air-con and bathroom but no window. US$10-15 (110-165,000 dong).

Thuy Nga, 24c Ta Hien (826 6053, fax 828 2892). A smart-looking mini-hotel whose rooms are well-priced if rather small, and stuffed with ornate wooden furniture. US$10-15 (110-165,000 dong).

Venus, 10 Hang Can (826 1212, fax 824 6010). Well-rated friendly hotel, where above average furnishings and lowish prices make up for being on the main drag. US$15-30 (165-330,000 dong).

Violet, 18 Cau Go (824 7386, fax 824 7386). Moderate hotel on a lively street offering good accommodation. Cheaper rooms are rather box-like, but all come with TV and telephone. US$10-15 (110-165,000 dong).

Anh Dao Hotel at 37 Ma May Street has doubles with aircon and TV for USD 20, breakfast included. The people are friendly. Tel 267151, Fax 282008.

Diamond Hotel has rooms for about USD 25 or 30.

Army, 33C Pham Ngu Lao, Tel 252896, Fax 259276, USD 50 to 125.

Bach Mai at 179 Bis Truong Chinh has quite a few sprots facilities. You can play tennis and enjoy the swimming pool and the sauna. Rooms go for USD 40 to 64. Tel 522107, 522527, Fax 521925.

Ban Co, 34 Hang Ga, Tel 246496, 282812, 282248, 18 rooms, USD 20 to 40.

Bi Bi GH is a dorm that offers beds for USD 4 per night.

Binh Minh: There are three Binh Minh hotels in Hanoi. The adrses are: 27 Ly Thai To str.: The expensive one with prices from USD 30-50

Hang Be: rooms with private shower (warm water) and toilette for USD 10 or USD 12 39 Hang Be: four bed dormitory for USD 4 per bed. Chinese style toilette, shower with hot water.

These hotels belong to the same person. I'm not sure about the first one, but the last two certainly do. He also has a hotel at Halong Bay. The people running the places are extremely friendly. They always talk to the travellers and invite them to sit down with them and drink tea. They also book tours to Sapa, Halong Bay, etc. for you.

Camellia Hotel at 81 Thuoc Bac offers rooms for USD 15 for a three people bedroom. The room has remote control a/c and TV. The people are very friendly and helpful. It is poss to get breakfast for USD 1 per day. Tel 282376, Fax 282404.

Dong Xuan is just next to the market and quite loud. A room with bathroom and hot water is USD 6. It seems that there was another hotel with this name, but it has been renamed to Hanh Phuc.

Duc Loi, USD 64.

Especen Hotel at 23 Hang Quat asks USD 18 for a night. Especen is a chain with several hotels all over Hanoi. For a different location or price, ask at the reception. They also have a tourist office, reported to be a bit more expensive than the others, but providing better hotels and better food (tel 8258845, fax 8269612).

Ha Tien Hotel at Ha Tien 22 offers doubles with hot showers for USD 12 to 15.

Hanh Phuc/Dong Xuan Htl is a nice place in old town, just next to the market, at 3 Thanh Ha St. They have clean rooms with a/c and bath for USD 10-20. Tel. (8)253290, (8)282142. NB: There is now another, rival hotel that calls itself Dong Xuan (thus the renaming of the original hotel). It is located next to the mkt and thus quite loud. A room with bathroom and hot water is USD 6.

Hanoi, USD 208.

Heritage, USD 137.

Hoang Cuong Hotel at 15 Nguyen Thai Hoa has rooms with television, phone, and airconditioning. They ask for USD 40, but it seems possible to negotiate down to USD 15.

Hoang Minh, USD 65.

Khach San 30-4 is just opposite the train station at 115 Tran Hung Dao. It is ideal for those that want to catch an early train. Rooms are USD 9.

Lotus Guest House was recommended by many people. The managers speak German. Nowadays prices are probably a bit too high with USD 12 for a small room without windows.

Mini Hotel, 24 Nha Chung , Tel 8269823, Fax: 844250099. The rooms cost from USD 13 to 25.

Nam Phuong Il Hotel at 26 Wha Chung has nice doubles with aircon and hot water for USD 13.

Ngoc Minh (Ocean) Hotel at 47 Luong Ngoc Quyen Street offers beautiful rooms for USD 20.

Nha Khach Van Nghe (Guest House Culture) is one of the most inexpensive places. It is at 22A Hai Ba Trung Street, right in the centre, nicely located around a small courtyard. Well worth the money, USD 3 - USD 15.

North Hotel 2 has reportedly cheap rooms for USD 12. olonez Hotel at 6A Nhan Tong Street in the Hai Ba District has nice, but noisy rooms for USD 45 to 65. Tel 8225715, Fax 8225228.

Prince Hotel at 78 Hang Ga has air-conditioned rooms with bath and TV for USD 20 (after bargaining). They add 10% tax.

Royal, USD 159.

Sofitel Metropole Hotel is definitely the best hotel in Hanoi, and certainly the one with the most tradition. It is located at 15 Pho Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kien, Tel 8266919, Fax 8266920. A room is USD 294.

Thang Loi, USD 131.

Thanh Binh Hotel at 81 Hang Dao Street offers clean rooms with air condition at VND 250'000.

Thien Thai, USD 98.

Thuy Tien, USD 93.

Viet My, 21 Mai Hac De Str. USD 20 for a double room with one double bed, bath with hot water, air condition and fan, refridgerator, satellite TV and tooth brush, tooth paste, towels, shower lotion, rasor blades, etc. provided. The rooms are clean and furnished with beatifully carved traditional Vietnamese furniture. It opened beginning of June 1994.

Vinh Quang Hotel at 24 Hang Quat Street has staff that speaks English and French. Tel 8243423.

From 1883 this was the French capital of Indochine and they built their ghetto in the SE of Hoan Kiem lake of which little remains. 100km from sea on Red River.


\6 Sapa

An intermediate stopover on the way to Lao Cai China border crossing. Two hrs (34km) by train or bus. Travelers usually come here to rrek.

Hanoi/Sapa 10hrs train 770,000 dong 2/99.

On the road: Sapa I shut my eyes not far outside of Hanois raucous urban landscape, miraculously lulled to sleep by the clanking of the slowly rolling train. I awoke in a tropical Oz complete with poppies huddled near the ground, scarecrows topped with conical hats and cornfields stretched diagonally across the mountainous terrain. A minivan shuttles passengers from the train station in Lao Cai along a steeply spiraling road to Sapa, the base camp for trekkers in northwest Vietnam. For the recreational hiker plenty of terraced hills peppered with minority villages provide turf for one, two or three day trips. For the more seriously inclined, Fan Si Pan, towering 3,143 meters above the ground, is known as the Mount Everest of Vietnam.

Tucked in a crevasse in the Tonkinese Alps near the Chinese border, Sapa was built as a hill station in 1922 and cultivated as a health spa resort area during the French colonial days. As the area was heavily bombed during the 1979 border skirmish with China, little evidence of the French influence remains and many of the brick buildings rest in rumbles. The recent tourist boom has spawned a few spiffy hotels, more reliable electricity and improved road access.

Some eight ethnic groups inhabit Lao Cai province: Hmong, Dao, White Thai, Giay, Tay, Muong, Hao and Xa Pho. Among the most visible in Sapa are the Red Dao, easily identified by their elaborately twisting, turban-like red headdresses, which clink with dangling coins. The embroidered royal blue attire of the Hmong visually distinguishes them from the Red Dao. Impossibly stuffed wicker baskets brimming with wood, stakes, bamboo, bricks and produce weigh down the hunched backs of groups of ethnic Hmong youngsters and women toting supplies from Sapa to their villages, which dot the rice fields like sandy patches on a putting green.

Sapas central market explodes with the bright colors and fresh scents of the local produce. Walking through the stalls smells like entering a tunnel built from a hallowed out cucumber. Aside from treats from nature  peaches, plums, corn, medicinal plants  ethnic women of all ages roam the pathways eager to sell their crafts  intricately woven bags, belts, pillow cases, traditional wedding dresses and hats.

Sapa charms visitors with its quaintness, but the natural beauty of the immense landscape dwarfs the human creations. A short 3 km walk from the Sapa market brings you to Cat Cat village and nearby waterfall. Verandas of neon green rice fields undulate like rippling puddles blown by the gusting winds. Wood houses stand precariously on stilts. Dogs diligently bark at strangers roaming the rice paddies. And youngsters, hauling baskets of grass, tear across the rugged terrain with an ease of familiarity.

A friend and I hired Minsks and drivers to explore areas farther outside of Sapa. I gripped the back of the bike tightly as we bumped on a road cut into the mountains' contours. About 45 minutes later he deposited us at the start of a path leading down the valley to Ban Ho village, a Tay settlement accessible only by foot. The steep path borders rice fields, crosses running water pocked with rocks and eventually winds through the scantily settled valley village. Three women from a neighboring village quietly attached themselves to us most of the way down. When we stopped for water, they stopped. When I tied my shoelaces, they paused. When they splintered left and we right, there was a sad but smiling farewell, as if saying good bye to travelling companions after a long journey.

After cooling off in the river, we faced the arduous climb up. I heaved my aching legs on the back of the Minsk and whizzed home for a hearty meal and a cold Lao Cai beer.

The next day, I awoke in what felt like a tree house in the clouds -- the view of the once visible Fan Si Pan an image tucked away in my memory. Accompanied by the same Minsk drivers we forged through the eerie thick curtain of moisture and blazed along Tram Ton Pass, the highest mountain pass in Vietnam. We sped from Sapas fogginess across the dividing line of two weather fronts into the sunshine side of Lai Chau. The lush mountainous view appeared as if filtered by green tinted sunglasses. Thac Bac, the Silver Waterfall, which towers 100m, offers a good place to wake your numb bum along the way.

In Sapa, the Cat Cat hotel offers great views, friendly service and good prices. I ate almost all my meals at Mimoza - both because the food is delicious and the management extremely helpful.

Abigail Walch, VASC

--------------------------------------------------------- Located in the middle of breathtaking landscape, Sapa is one of the most wonderful places in all of Asia. Being a former French hill station, it is situated in the midst of mountains, just south of the Fansipan, with 3143 m the highest point of Vietnam. It is very convenient located for hiking in the surrounding area, where you can visit many small villages of minorities, mainly the Hmong (Meo) and the Dao. Especially the Hmong sell beautifully embroidered bags, caps, jackets, etc. Market day is every day, but the weekend is special. But the weekend is also specially crowded with foreigners, so it's probably a good idea to avoid it. I dare say that someone who has been there just one year ago will not recognize it anymore and certainly not like the crowds. But that's the way of most of the (former) insider locations...

(Lotta and Johan) A wonderful place. The surroundings are breathtaking, and the atmosphere friendly. During weekends, the minority people walk down from the mountains to sell their goods and handicrafts at the market in Sa Pa. They wear their beatiful costumes, and they would wear them even if the tourists weren't there, which felt good. At night the Hmong people gathered on the street, and the young girls and boys sang traditional, monotonous tunes to one another to find a husband or a wife. All the tribes members, as well as some tourists, gathered around them and listened. As a couple had found each other and finished singing, they left hand in hand. Let's just hope tourism doesn't spoil this wonderful place!

Accommodation There are now more than 15 hotels, mostly charging USD 6 for a double room.

The Green Bamboo has new rooms and a great vie of Fansipan. A double costs USD 10. They also have rooms with AC and TV, but they are more expensive. This hotel is connected with the Green Bamboo in Hanoi, so you can book directly there.

The Pansy hotel is quite nice with a great view of Mount Farsipan.

Eating One of the best places to relax in Vietnam is the Cafe d'Auberge. From its terrasse you can enjoy an excellent view of the surrounding valleys and, of course, the Fansipan.

Mt Fansipan (9km from Sapa) is Vietnam's highest peak at 3143m and can be reached by three trails in 3-6 days. A small fun project but but be caught unprepared.

 Ldging  Many GHs but demand is great, if full, go upscale.

--------------------------------------------------------- Hitchhiking Vietnam "I disembarked in the provincial capital of Lao Cai, a stone's throw from China and the jumping-off place to the minority villages scattered like grains of sand across the nearby mountains and fertile valleys. Splashes of color in the busy marketplace confirmed the presence of the shy tribespeople in their incongruously vibrant headgear and embroidered skirts. I shouldered my pack and set off on the last leg, along the narrow feeder road that wound its way high into the mountains, to the tiny market town of Sapa."

Excerpt from Hitchhiking Vietnam

DIRECTIONS: Take the overnight train to Lao Cai (if you wake up in China then you've gone too far). Everyone and his brother will sell you a ride up the mountain to Sapa.

THINGS TO LOOK FOR: 1.The Weekend Market. 2.The lovely embroideries sold by the minorities, especially the older ones 3.The even more lovely embroidered clothes that they're wearing 4.The food stalls. 5.Hand-spinning hemp and traditional medicines. 6.All the new gadgets on the traders' mats below the market. 7.What the minorities bring to market to sell and what they buy. 8.The kids - some of them are miles from home. 9.The embroidered clothes that the tourists are buying have an unusual source. If they only knew..

FACTS: Sapa is a hilltop station (1,600 meters) built in 1922

It is nestled in the Hoan Lien Mountains, nicknamed the Tonkinese Alps by the French.

It's cold. The temp can get down to 0 degs C in winter.

It's wet, especially between Jun and Jan.

Nearby Fansipan the highest mountain in VNam at 3143m.

For many years Sapa was a forgotten backwater town. And then came the hoards of falang tourists... salvation.

---------------------- Located at an altitude of 1600m in the remote NW Highlands

It was built as a hill station for the French in 1922, but went into a long decline from which it has only recently recovered. More and more travellers are braving the bad roads and flocking here for the climate (cold in winter) and to visit the hill tribes (mostly Hmong, Dao and Kinh people) who live in the area.

The Saturday market is the best place to buy handicrafts. Accommodation can be tight, especially on weekends when tour parties visit. Just 9km from Sapa is Fansipan (3143m), which is Vietnam's highest mountain. A hike to the top and back takes about four days, and you'll need a guide and decent equipment, as it is usually wet and cold. You can get to within 30km of Sapa by train from Hanoi. Once you reach Lao Cai, you'll need to transfer to a local bus.

--------------------------------------------------------- Sapa: The Tonkinese Alps One of our earliest tours we've brought back because Sapa shouldn't be missed. Sapa is an incredibly picturesque, tranquil village that lies a mile high on the Hoang Lien Son mountain range along the Chinese border in Northwest Vietnam. Nicknamed "the Tonkinese Alps" the area features vaulting rice terraces, lush vegetation and the highest peak in Vietnam, Fansipan, which towers over the village, swirled in fog from across a deep valley. The town was "discovered" by Jesuit missionaries in 1918. Attracted by the cool and temperate climate, Westerner arrivals transformed Sapa into a pleasant hill station. Along with a church, they constructed hotels, tennis courts, airport, hydro-electric station and summer villas. Most were abandoned or destroyed during the subsequent war for independence with the French, but the colonial influence remains.

Although the Sapa means "sand village" in Chinese, Sapa is located within Vietnam and is home to a wealth of colorful, diverse hill tribes, who have steadfastly resisted integration into Vietnamese society and modern life. In fact, the hill tribes, including the Hmong, the Dao, and the Dai, comprise the majority of inhabitants in the area, outnumbering the Vietnamese who prefer the low lands. Sapas central market is a main gathering place for hill tribes from the surrounding villages. They congregate there not only to sell handicrafts, jewelry, orchids, mushrooms, and honey, but to also cultivate relations with other groups, play games, and perhaps find a sweetheart. On some weekend evenings, singing courtships and marriages take place. We will immerse ourselves in this hill tribe culture while exploring Sapa's beautiful expanse.

Our nine-day tour originates from Hanoi and is offered only as an extension to our full Saigon to Hanoi or Tet tours. A scenic train ride along the Red River will take us to the Chinese border where we begin our ride to Sapa, our base for three days of exploring the area. Highlights include cycling over Vietnams highest pass, to local hill tribe villages, and exploration of Sapas natural wonders and peaceful surroundings. We can expect cool weather and early morning fog blowing off Qui Ho Lake high above Sapa. Accommodations are at a charming colonial-style hotel overlooking the breadth of Sapas mountain range, terraced rice fields, and deep valley. Two days of cycling back to Hanoi follow a densely forested highway that is rarely used, but well paved. Tourism has yet to hit Sapa, but during our research tour in July the road from Lao Cai was being properly paved, and a small but steady stream of backpackers were starting to roll in. Two half-day excursions in Hanoi are also part of the tour.

ITINERARY Day 1: Train from Hanoi to Lao Cai on the Chinese border. A beautiful ride through the countryside and bamboo forests to the border train station. Before dinner we'll explore the border area. Overnight in Lao Cai.

Day 2: Early morning ride from Lao Cai into the "Tonkinese Alps" to Sapa. The climb, although only 19 miles, gains over four thousand feet so not everyone is expected to ride the distance -- there will be a support van along to hop into when the legs have had enough. The views are magnificent the higher we climb. Looking back over the border into China, seven different mountain ranges can be seen. And on the left of the road, a deep valley has been carved over centuries with terraces for cultivating rice. We'll also see our first hilltribes - mostly Hmong - dressed in traditional, Indigo-dyed clothing.

Day 3: Sapa. Ride to Silver Falls and Dinh Deo Pass, at five thousand feet is Vietnam's highest paved road, and to the source of Sapa's morning fog - Qui Ho Lake. Overnight at comfortable French colonial hotel, the Auberge Dang Trung which overlooks the breadth of Sapa's mountain range, including Fansipan - Vietnam's highest mountain. Afternoon hike to Ta'van hill tribe's village approximately four miles away in a wide, serene valley. We'll meet and observe the Ta'van in their day-to-day activities. Along the way we will see the few remaining French colonial buildings, including a large church, that were severely damaged during the Chinese invasion in 1979.

Day 4: Sapa. Morning hike down past the terraced rice fields to the Qui Ho river valley dotted with Hmong villages. Afternoon free. Preparations for next day's ride.

Day 5: Ride from Sapa to Pho Rang. Our morning begins with an hour and a half descent! We coast out of Sapa back down to Lao Cai losing over four thousand feet of elevation. Once at Lao Cai we turn and follow the Red River via a desolate, rolling highway. Deep forest and small villages along the route.

Day 6: Pho Rang to Yen Bai. More riding along the scenic Red River. Today we'll pass through various hilltribe-inhabited areas, including the brightly-clad Flower Hmong. Overnight at Yen Bai government hotel.

Day 7: Half-day morning train ride from Yen Bai to Hanoi. Afternoon free for sightseeing, shopping, bicycle packing and other post-tour arrangements. Farewell dinner.

AIRLINE: None - tour departs by train from Hanoi.

NOTE: During the weekend, whichever day of the tour that falls on, we will visit the central market - gathering place for the local Hmong and other hilltribe peoples.

GUIDES: Nguyen Van Cuong was born and raised in Hanoi. He owns and operates the Green Bamboo Travel Service and has traveled extensively in northern Vietnam. Patrick Morris has lived in Saigon and cycled over 6,000 miles in Vietnam. He has led over a dozen cycling tours in the country, including this trip to Sapa.


\7 Saigon

Saigon is a bustling city full of motorbikes. - For the budget tourist, there are 2 centers: The real center with some big hotels like the Rex The budget center along Pham Nga Lao where all the budget lodging, restaurants, travelagencies and internetcafs are situated. You can go by foot from the one center to the other in 15 minutes, a taxi will cost you 5000 VND.

Getting there - By plane - There are numerous flights from all over the country into Saigon, as well as many international flights (in fact much more then to Hanoi). Saigon airport gets about 500.000 passengers each year.

To Saigon: from Hue & Danang 1.000.000 VND, from Nha Trang 650.000 VND, from Dalat 450.000 VND, from Hanoi 1.900.000 PS: prices for Vietnamese are about 50 of the above stated prices)

Intl flights from Saigon: to Pnom Penh $70, to SIN $242 with Vietnam Airlines and $287 with Singapore Airlines, to Kuala Lumpur $160, to Bangkok $170.

Trans (taxi) to/from Saigon: Prices are not fixed here, so rip offs are common. Demand to put on the meter, normal price is about 5 US$, but no more then 7 US$!!. Our taxi driver put on the meter, and at our arrival the meter said 6.900 (underneath was written "Fare in VND"). Of course 6900 VND is 50 cents, so that's way to low). So I presumed (correctly) the correct fare was 69.000 dong (which is 5 US$). The driver denied this and said it was 6,9 km, and he had to multiply this with the fare per km, thus he demanded 9 US$. We refused and paid him the 69.000 VND (he refused a tip of 11.000 VND !). So be firm, and pay the fare on the meter !!

By bus - Bus trips from Nha Trang are reasonably comfortable if you're lucky the bus is not too full.

Getting around - Taxis are pretty cheap and reliable. Price in Saigon is 12.000 VND for the first 2 km, then 1200 VND every 200 m. Cyclo's can be fun, but of course prices need to be negotiated. We never paid more then 5000 VND for short trips like the center to the travelcafes.

Lodging - One of the best hotels in town is definitely the New World Hotel. It's an excellent hotel located at walking distance from both the center and the Pham Ngu Lao area. Rooms have everything like safe, TV, telephone, AC, minibar... They also have a swimming pool, tennis court and small golf court. Usual price is 120 US$, but the give a discounted price of 65 US$ + 15% charges for a double with breakfast. Check out there website for more info and reservations.

Another good place is the Equatorial hotel, but they have the disadvantage of being located away from the center. Still, a taxi to the center only costs 1 US$, and they have 5 shuttles a day. Rooms are big and have everything you could wish: AC, TV, telephone, minibar, safe etc... Their swimming pool is quite nice. They have special deals at 60 US$ + 15% for a double including breakfast. Check out their website for more info and reservations.

The KIM DO hotel has an excellent location, but unfortunately this also means that it is a bit noisy. There's a Karaoke bar behind the lobby, and in the rooms we also heard noises from nearby bars. Breakfast was a good buffet, with even fresh pine apple juice. A double costs 40 US$, but due to the noise I can't really recommend it. Check their website for more info.

The REX hotel is a classic, since it used to be the place where the American military held their daily press conferences, and thus you should have a look at their rooftop terrace bar/restaurant. It is a 4-star hotel, furniture is (of course) a bit older. They also have a swimming pool. Price of a double is 59 US$ including breakfast and taxes, for 10 US$ extra they'll give you a suite with other things. Check their website for more info.

Restaurants - Plenty of options in Saigon, both cheap (go to Pham Ngu Lao area) or more expensive but also very good (go to the area around Rex Hotel).

The Kim Caf at De Tham street has good and cheap Vietnamese and other meals; If you want to sit on a terrace, but more quiet then at De Tham street, choose one of the pedestrian streets running parallel to it. We went to Zen caf which is known for its vegetarian dishes (but a bit spicy for us).

If you want to eat in style (and are prepared to pay for it), go to the Lemon Grass restaurant. It's a trendy place popular among foreigners, count on 50.000 VND for a course. Service was a bit too fast for our taste though.

Nextdoor is the Brodard pastry shop.

What to do - It may sound a bit strange, but we had a great time walking around and just looking at streetlife (we had just arrived in Vietnam, so the busy streetlife was quite intriguing to us). A good idea is to hire a cyclo and indulge yourself in the traffic (10.000 VND is more the enough for a good ride). Also we took photographs of the motorcyclists (sometimes with 3 or 4 people) while we were in the taxi.

The War Crimes museum is open each day from 7 till 11.45 and also in the afternoon (no closing day contrary to what guidebooks say). Entrance is 10.000 VND. Outside you'll see some American warfare (helicopter, tank, plane...). Inside you'll see plenty of pictures of all the atrocities the US did to the North Vietnamese. There's also 1 pavillion with pictures of all the rallies in support of the North Vietnamese from all over the world.

The Reunification Hall is not bad, but don't worry if you miss it; It is the former presidential palace. It's opened from 7-11 am and 1-4 pm, entrance is 15.000 VND. you can see all the rooms of the palace, there's also an American helicopter put on the roof, and in the basement you'll see the commanding rooms.

Binh Tay Chinese market is far from the center. A taxi costs 3 US$. There's nothing to buy for tourists, but a visit can be rewarding to see how the Chinese-Vietnamese trade their typical goods. Nice if you want to take pictures.

Shopping - Saigon is definitely a shoppers paradise for tourists. You'll get the biggest choice of copied books here (even brand-new Grisham's not even available in Belgium), and of course all the Lonely planets from Asia.

You'll also find plenty of shops selling rucksacks of brands like The North Face, Jack Wolfskin, Lowe etc... You won't see the difference with the real thing, but once you touch the tissue, you'll see it lacks the strength of the real stuff.

Internet cafes - The cheapest connections can be had in Saigon where prices are 150 to 200 VND per minute. The speed among different cafs can differ greatly, and in my point of view there's 1 important trick to remember: go there where few people are surfing (and this often means going to the place where they charge 200 instead of 150 VND per minute. Why? The reason is simple: these cafs only have 1 modem, and they often (especially in Saigon) put 10 or 20 PC's on this 1 modem. Thus, the more people surfing on this 1 modem, the slower you'll go (and for them, their costs are the same, whether there's 1 surfer or 20 surfers).

For an overview of the trips you can book at Saigon travelagencies, I refer to the page "travelagencies". Most popular are trips to Cu Chi tunnels, possibly combined with a visit to Tay Ninh temple, and then of course there are the numerous trips to Mekong Delta.

--------------------------------------------------------- Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam - The street was spinning-a roofless carousel mounted with motos. They roared up the boulevard that leads down to the river, zoomed by the balloon vendors at the foot of the square, swung in front of the gingerbread Hotel de Ville and careered past the glass-doored entrance of the Rex, where I stood in the steps-my first evening in Saigon-tired and transfixed.

Some bikes carried entire short-sleeved families, others single determined young men or pairs of watchful trouse-red girls (giving the scene the feel of a paseo in a small Mexican town, only motorized). They circled an animated crowd of bubble blowers, picture takers, shoe-shine boys, dried-squid vendors and Sunday strollers all taking the air under the towering billboards of Panasonic and Konica. The cyclo drivers-slumped headachy in their bulky contraptions-seemed the only living things still stationary in the city, aside from the geckos stuck to the walls of the old town hall.

During the 50's to 70's, America was involved in a bloody war in Vietnam. After a while, people started getting upset that America was involved for so long. We weren't winning and a few soldiers were killed. Hippies protested in anti-war movements. Much of these protests occurred in the largest city in Vietnam; once Saigon, now HCMC.

Ho Chi Minh City, with a pop of over 4 million. It is located on the Sai Gon River is an important commercial and economic center, with port facilities. Since the Vietnamese govt initiated its doi moi, or economic renovation, policy in 86, SGN has experienced a lot of growth and attracted many foreign investors. Many of the country's privately owned factories operate in SGN.

SGN was occupied by the Annamese (Vietnamese) in the late 17th cen and became an important commercial center. The French captured it in 1859 and the city was made the capital of French Indochina. When the French agreed in 1954 to withdraw from the country, Vietnam was divided into North and South Vietnam, with Saigon becoming the capital of South Vietnam. Following the Vietnam War (1959-1975), Vietnam was "reunified" in 1976.

The city's name was changed to Ho Chi Minh City in honor of Ho Chi Minh, the former president of North Vietnam.

During the Vietnam War, Saigon was the hdqrs for the U.S. and S.VN forces. It was heavily damaged and faced the overcrowding of an influx of over 1 million refuges. Much of the fighting occurred around Saigon. One of the most dangerous places troops fought was the Ho Chi Minh Trail. This was the longest trail supplying munitions to the N.VN. The U.S. troops had mostly gotten rid of different trails supplying weapons, but had considerable trouble with this one. Many, many U.S. troops and S. Vietnamese troops were killed on this trail. This was mainly because of Guerrilla War; the enemy would hide in the forest around the trail and ambush the troops as they walked through unprotected.

Just before the end of the war, it was clear that the N.VN was winning. Some of their troops had moved in towards the north part of the city. Nixon, during this time, was struggling to extricate American troops from the area. Despite all the commotion, many of the S.VN, didn't seem to care about what was going on. They just watched during this time as crimson flags with gold stars stamped in the center, go up all over the city.

After the war was over, Vietnam was united as one whole country and Saigon was renamed Ho Chi Minh City in honor of the former president of N.VN, Ho Chi Minh.

The communist govt took over, there was nothing the US or the S.VN could do. However, many of the people who still live in the city have not changed to calling it HCMC and it is often still referred to as Saigon. Despite that it is still, and probably will be for a while, communist.

--------------------------------------------------------- APOCALYPSE REVIVED - Much as I adore Vietnam's decadent Saigon City, I was a tad disappointed on my first visit. Having been mesmerised by the "The Deerhunter's" footage of heaving, wartime streets, where bodies flowed along shoulder to shoulder until hauled into some illicit bar, I expected the same.

However, those former scenes of 'Nam had long disappeared and the city's' nightlife post-1975 took on a distinctly austere slant. In recent years, however, as ex-pats and tourists assumed roles left vacant by former combatees, Saigon's nightlife experienced a sensational revival.

Although a good time can now be had by all, it's a some what sanitised version of former days. Irish-theme pubs and Mexican bars complete with global sports channels are now the norm. But wind your way down notorious Mac Thi Boi Street and you'll encounter a permanent reminder of the old times. Behind its unimposing facade, lies the appropriately named Apocalypse Now nightclub. You've seen the movie, read the book (well, Conrad's Heart of Dark-ness) now you can even buy the t-shirt.

If there is one nightspot to visit on your rounds, make it Apocalypse Now. As you enter Saigon's most infamous institution, it's as if The Doors and chopping helicopter blades never really faded away. It's the glory days of Saigon all over again. Talk about a blast from the past -and that's not just the crowd who frequents it.

Anyone over twenty-one who attempts the brave new Western style nightclubs in downtown Saigon may be forgiven for thinking its "Game Over" for them. But here in the wonderful pulsating den of hedonism that is Apocalypse Now, any age can get away with it; wear what you want and do what you want, anything goes.

Even the music fits the retro feel: the unmistakable strains of The 'Stones and Abba induce you to feel like you've stepped back in time. If you're lucky, you might get a bit of garage music thrown in, but there again, don't bank on it. You will however get your sports channels.

Maybe the dark shades and combat trousers wouldn't look too out of place here. Was that fake blood on the mirrors and camouflage netting draped across the walls, or was that too many bourbons and too many scenes from "Platoon"? An eclectic mismatch of bargirls in impossibly tight attire, ex-pats, tourists and businessmen all blend wonderfully together in this well-loved time warp.

Before 11pm and you may be disappointed; just a few locals playing pool and the ever-burgeoning group of bar girls re-checking their make-up. But you haven't really walked on the wild side until you have staggered into the club in the wee small hours, watched transfixed at the outrageous social interaction in the dim corners and made a total fool of yourself strutting your stuff on the pulsating dance floor.

All that remains to round off the night is to race off into the eerily quiet streets on the back of a roaring Honda. But not before you've brought your very own Apocalypse Now t-shirt.

--------------------------------------------------------- Sat night, Dong Koi Street, downtown Saigon. Close your eyes and you may be mistaken for hearing a swarm of giant mosquitoes buzzing around you. Wrong. Open your eyes and you'll witness a great weekend ritual: hundreds upon hundreds of droning Honda bikes slowly cruising in a circular route down Dong Khoi, Le Loi and Nguyen Hue streets. It's quite an amazing sight in the balmy evening hours.

The streets are literally clogged with Saigon's young lovelies' --some riding side-pillion - clasping their tight jeans-clad, mobile phone wielding boyfriends. The aim of this ritual is just to go round and round the streets for hours on end, as leisurely as possible and to suss out the competition. Some carry on-going conver-sations between other biking friends whilst expertly negotiating the choc-a-bloc traffic.

Some singles make this an ideal way of trying to muscle in on a bit of lurve interest (who needs dating agen-cies?) The brave new world of consumerism -hip designer labels and new bike models -are meticulously eyed-up. If there are any traffic accidents - a dead-cert probability in Vietnam - the motorbikes move so slowly, that it hardly takes effect. Besides, emotions are so joyous, it's no big deal between the two offending parties.

Anyone over 25-years of age (totally past-it) may look rather wistfully (and enviously) at the ubitiquous show of youthful fun on parade. It's somehow hard to grasp that only a few decades ago this very generation would have been slogging it out in some horrendous war-field. Now their only worry is which club to choose from for the evening and to remember to fill up with petrol.

Ironically their very movements are checked out by a rather bemused Uncle Ho, now solidified as a statue, who can do little but stare out over the proceedings. For this bright new generation of Viets, an urgent matter of dates to be made, rendez-vous's to be finalised and frantic calls phoned through on the latest must-have mobiles takes a high priority.

It makes the film American Graffiti resemble a wet Sunday grannies get-together. No westerners appear to have the courage or motivation to join in. For them and those who wisely prefer to stand safely on two feet, the best place to witness this thunderous side-show is to position oneself on the square just below the imposing Hotel De Ville. This will give you prime position for all three streets and allows you to enjoy the best bit of free entertainment in Saigon.

But then try not to get commandeered by the very persistent postcard and balloon sellers, hawking on the pavements. After a while drinking this sight in, you may feel like grabbing a bit of Saigon action yourself. However, this author can't help you out with a little matter of crossing the road. That's something you will have to figure out by yourself. Good luck.


"Gulik perched above and behind me, his knees pumping and his rubber flip-flops askew on the cyclo pedals. "I", he said, inserting the cyclo deftly into the almost seamless flow of traffic, "am the Speeding Bullet. Nobody is faster than Gulik."

We hurtled into an intersection, a lawless confluence of three streams of traffic, where life seemed measured in inches and stunning acts of courage went virtually unnoticed. My feet disappeared momentarily under the fender of an oncoming truck, then reappeared to clip the outermost egg of a moving vendor's cart. Gulik laughed gaily and surged towards the next giddy brush with death while I surreptitiously wiped the yolk off my Reeboks."

WEATHER: It's just what you'd expect when you think of Vietnam. Hot.

THINGS TO LOOK FOR: 1.Cholon means "Big market" and is Saigon's version of Chinatown. 2.Traffic. At rush hour it's two-wheel bumper-to-bumper. Quite a sight to see. 3.Most people think Saigon is big, ugly, dirty, polluted, noisy, and hot. They're right. That's why this section is so short.

FACTS: Every nook and cranny, every inch of sidewalk along Dong Ho Avenue is occupied by budding businessmen and women, their wares spilling out into the street: fried dog, bike repair, chickens (live or dead), second-hand plastic pens, and single sheets of paper. Here and there a drunk retches into a gutter and a dog sniffs casually at a rotting rat.

Okay, it's really called Ho Chi Minh City, but everybody still refers to it as Saigon.

The Vietnamese need a residence permit to live in Saigon. About 1/3 of the pop is illegal. That means their children cannot get into schools, they cannot own property, and they can only take "black market" jobs (like cyclo driver and market loader). Many illegal residents are ex-South Vietnamese soldiers.

-------------------------------------------------------- Formerly (UNTIL 1976) SAIGON, Vietnamese Thanh Pho Ho Chi Minh, largest city in Vietnam; it was the former capital of the French protectorate of Cochinchina (1862-1954) and of South Vietnam (1954-75). The city lies along the Saigon River (Song Sai Gon) to the north of the Mekong River delta, about 50 miles (80 km) from the South China Sea. The commercial centre of Cho Lon lies immediately west of Ho Chi Minh City. The area now occupied by Ho Chi Minh City was for a long time part of the kingdom of Cambodia. The Vietnamese first gained entry to the region in the 17th century. Relations with France began in the 18th century, when French traders and missionaries settled in the area. In 1859 the town was captured by the French, and in 1862 it was ceded to France by the Vietnamese emperor Tu Duc. As the capital of Cochinchina, Saigon was transformed into a major port city and a metropolitan centre of beautiful villas, imposing public buildings, and well-paved, tree-lined boulevards. Railway lines running north and south of the city were also constructed, and Saigon became the principal collecting point for the export of rice grown in the Mekong River delta. Saigon was occupied by the Japanese in 1940, but French colonial authorities continued to administer Vietnam until 1945, when they were interned by the Japanese. Saigon itself was largely unaffected by World War II. After the Japanese surrender in 1945, Vietnamese independence was declared by the Viet Minh organization under Ho Chi Minh in Hanoi, but celebrations in Saigon turned into a riot. French troops then seized control of the city, and the First (or French) Indochina War began. The war ended in 1954 with the Geneva conference, which divided Vietnam into northern and southern zones. The cultural and political life of Saigon, which became the capital of South Vietnam, was enriched and complicated by an influx of refugees from North Vietnam. During the Second Indochina War, or Vietnam War, of the 1960s and early '70s, Saigon was the headquarters of U.S. military operations. Parts of the city were destroyed by fighting in 1968. On April 30, 1975, North Vietnamese troops captured Saigon, and the city was subsequently renamed Ho Chi Minh City. Under communist control, Ho Chi Minh City lost its administrative functions, and strenuous efforts were made to reduce its population and dependence upon foreign imports and to nationalize its commercial enterprises. While many business firms closed or were disrupted after 1975, new ventures began, with emphasis placed on self-sufficiency. A state-run handicraft enterprise exports a wide range of products--including furniture, carpets, lacquer paintings, and other works of art--made largely from local materials. Ho Chi Minh City retains the faded look of a European city, with its many Western-style buildings dating from the period of French colonial rule. Most of the bars and restaurants that thrived in Saigon during the Vietnam War have closed their doors. The elegant Cercle Sportif, a focal point of social life for Westerners after it was founded in 1912, is now a people's museum. The old opera house, for 20 years the National Assembly Building, was converted to a national theatre. The University of Saigon was reorganized to form the University of Ho Chi Minh City. Tan Son Nhut Airport has regularly scheduled flights by Air Vietnam to other domestic urban centres and by Air France to Paris. Pop. (1989) 3,169,135.

Ho Chi Minh City is one of the new Asian boomtowns and with 3.5 million inhabitants Vietnams largest city. There is still a lot of the old Asia, but it is changing rapidly, becoming modern quite quickly.

Ho Chi Minh City is often referred to as Saigon. However, this is only part of the truth, as Ho Chi Minh City also includes other parts, like Cholon.

The saddest part of the modernisation are the many beggars, some of them dressing up their wounds, some pretending that they are one legged (binding one leg up behind their bodies), while others were really disabled. Since I have seen beggars only at tourist spots and many beggars were strong and healthy young men I never gave them money. Another point is that I never encountered beggars in other cities (except the tourist spots in NhaTrang).



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SAIGON

Catholic Cathedral The Cathedral of Notre Dame was built between 1877 and 1880 on what is thought to be the site of an ancient pagoda. You can see communion celebrated here three times on weekdays and Saturdays and six times on Sundays. For those of you who like Asian kitsch, look out for the neon "Ave Maria" sign in the nave.



Municipal Theatre The municipal theatre is just opposite the Continental Hotel. The place in front of it is the place to be on a Sunday or on a beautiful evening where Saigon's youth meet and circle around on motorscooters to see and be seen.



City Hall Stands at the northwest end of Nguyen Hue Boulevard overlooking a statue of Ho Chi Minh.



Historical Museum Once known as the National Museum, this ornate building was built in 1928. It displays a wide range of artifacts from prehistoric times (300,000 years ago) and the Dongson period (3,500 BC - 100 AD) up to the formation of the Vietnamese Communist Party in 1930. There numerous artifacts from Chenla, Funan, Han Chinese, Khmer, and Oc-ceo periods, various Vietnamese dynasties, and some hilltribe pieces. Notable are the Cham sculptures, of which the best is the standing bronze Buddha from the 4th-6th century.



War Museum Marked by a tank and warplane in the front compound the museum contains the articles of war and various photographs without overt propaganda.



War Crimes Museum This museum's message does not come from bombs, helicopters, and tanks in the courtyard. Rather the most disturbing aspect is from the display showing the after-effects of Agent Orange defoliation - bottled human fetuses with shocking deformities. There is a great number of photographs and a some additional exhibits illustrating Man's inhumanity - the Son My (My Lai) massacre on 16 March 1968, and the effects of napalm and phosphorous. However, don't expect to find any displays showing atrocities committed by the Viet Cong or North Vietnamese. Admission is VND 7000. It closes at 16:45.



Botanical Gardens Since they were established in 1864, the gardens had grown to a collection of nearly 2,000 species, of which its orchids were noteworthy. With the war and its subsequent dislocations, the gardens declined and are still trying to recover today.



Former US Embassy The grounds are in a state of neglect with vegetation growing up around the buildings. A plaque outside records the attack during the 1968 Tet Offensive and the final victory in 1975. Check with the guard at the side entrance, it may be possible to go in for a closer look.



Xa Loi Pagoda This pagoda is more interesting for its history, despite the fact that it houses a relic of the Buddha. Built in 1956, the pagoda became a center of dissent against the Diem regime. In August 1963, armed men ransacked the pagoda and arrested 400 monks and nuns, including the country's 80-year- old Buddhist patriarch under orders from President Diem's brother.



Presidential Palace (Reunification Hall) The residence of the French governor was built on this site in 1868 and was later renamed the Presidential Palace. In February 1962, in an assassination attempt against President Diem, a pair of planes that took off to attack Viet Cong positions suddenly turned back to bomb the Presidential Palace. The president escaped, but the palace had to be rebuilt. The building remains as it was on April 30, 1975 when an NVA tank crashed though the front gates.



Saigon Central Mosque Since Islamic law forbids the use of human or animal figures for decoration, the mosque's simplicity stands in stark contrast to the fussy Chinese temple decorations and elaborate ritual objects of Buddhist pagodas. Built by South Indian Muslims in 1935, only half-a-dozen Indian Muslims remain in Saigon. There are 12 other mosques serving Saigon's 5000 Muslims.



Mariaman Hindu Temple This is the only active Hindu temple remaining in Saigon to serve the 50 or 60 Tamil Hindus. However, it is a curious sight to watch the numerous Chinese Vietnamese Hoa Hao worshippers prostrating themselves with incense sticks in front of a Hindu deity. The temple has two colorful towers decorated with a tangle of lions, goddesses, and guardians. Inside there is a statue of Mariamman flanked by Maduriveeran and Pechiamman.



Revolutionary Museum This is the same as the museum in Hanoi, displaying photographs, some military hardware in the back compound, and memorabilia of the Revolution. Admission is VND 20000 and the once eager guides have become bored civil servants.



Ton Duc Thang Museum Opened in 1989, this museum contains photographs and memorabilia dedicated to the life of Ton Duc Thang, a comrade of Ho Chi Minh. Bac Ton was president of Vietnam and died in 1980.



Art Museum Work from the classical period through to socialist realist is displayed in this cream mansion at 97A Pho Duc Chinh Street.



Phung Son Tu Pagoda This small temple was built just after WW II by Fukien Chinese. It is dedicated to Ong Bon, the Guardian of Happiness and Virtue. The most notable feature of the temple is the front doors decorated with fearsome armed warriors. Incense coils patiently burn in the open well of the pagoda, spreading their sweet scent.



Nha Rong (Dragon House) The building has been converted into a museum honoring the life of Ho Chi Minh through pictures.







Shopping



Cho Ben Thanh Market This is a large covered central market which, together with Binh Tay Market in Cholon, is the largest in Saigon. Cho Ben Thanh, at the intersection of Le Loi, Ham Nghi, and Tran Hung Dao boulevards, is interesting to walk through, but there is little of its clothes, food, household utensils, cheap jewelry, and toys worth buying.



Many airline offices are near the Rex Hotel, some in the same block, some on the other side of Nguyen Hue Boulevard, others just round the corner (turn right just before the city hall).



Just opposite the Vietcom bank (the main branch next to Saion river ???) there is an animal market. It is in a small hall, looking more like a storage shed for some tools. There are dogs, cats, birds, snakes, mice, monkeys, and some other sepcies on sale. I didn't inquire for prices ;->



South of the Rex Hotel is an electronic market. You can get really cheap CDs (for as little as VND 20000), but of course they are Taiwanese copies. The cover is printed badly, but the sound quality is mostly ok. It is possible (and advisable) to listen to them before you buy them.



On the first floor of the department store at Nguyen Trung Truc Street is a well stocked supermarket.







Accommodation



In the region of Pham Ngu Lao and Le Lai street (around Kim Cafe and Sinh Cafe) are many small hotels with cheap rooms. Very much recommended is also Bui Vien Street just nearby.



(Anna, Feb 96) Many families rent out one or two rooms in their house. This is illegal, so they don't advertise, but if you are a traveller carrying a rucksack, then they will find you. Staying with a family is often very pleasant. Price for bed and breakfast: about USD3 per person.



Recommended is Miss Loi Guest House at 178/20 Co Giang Street. Room rates are VND 80'000 to 120'000. Tel 8352973.



The Nha Khach 4 at 4 Pham Ngu Lao Street has pleasant doubles with fan and ensuite bathroom with hot water. It is USD 8 (Anna bargained it down to USD 5 in Feb 96).



Mimi's Guesthouse at 40/5 Bui Vien Street has rooms with fan, private bathroom and hot shower for USD 8. The owner is very helpful.



Tooms Hung at 40/14A Bui Vien Street has tooms from USD 8 to 15, depending on the room and the duration of your stay.



Tran Thi Canh: Just opposite Kim Cafe there is a small mini hotel with clean rooms from USD 3 to USD 15. The one for three dollars is on top of the roof. Ask for a room on the backside (We had number 7, with private toilette and shower (cold water only) a refrigerator and even a small balcony and a desk.)



The 265, also just opposite the Kim Cafe, has a/c doubles for USD 12.



Lars found a nice, and cheap, little place called Houng Residotel, 46 Le Thi Rieng street. Maybe 10 rooms. He shared a large double for USD 6, max. USD 15 for a room. Run by a family, nice people. It's 5-10 min walk from central market, Cho Ben Than. A little hard to find since it doesn't look like a hotel. If the door is closed, ring the bell.



There is also Guest House, 127 Cong Quynh with doubles from USD 8 to 10.



The Vien Dong at 275 Pham Ngu Lao charges USD 12 for a double room. There are reportedly USD 3 rooms as well.



The Hong Hoa Hotel at 185/28 Pham Ngu Lao has rooms from USD 10 to 20. Tel 8361915, 8369692. E-mail honhoarr@hcm.vnn.vn.



Excellent value is the Hotel Dung at 185/6 Pham Ngu Lao Street. An immaculate room with a wonderful balcony is USD 18.



There is a very nice and clean hotel at 422 Hai Ba Trung, the Duc Huy. They have rooms with hot water, TV and refrigerator for USD 15.



The Fuji Mini Hotel in the 5th district has 12 rooms, all with air conditioning, cable TV (CNN, MTV, BBC) and a small desk. It is USD 30 for a single and USD 40 for double rooms.



The Bi Saigon is quite new (June 1995) and very clean and nice. A small flat with two rooms, airconditioning, bathroom and a balcony with fabulous view over Siagon costs USD 34. It's located in a small side alley from Pham Ngu Lao Street.



Cafe Mogambo, 20 Duong Thi Sach is USD 35 for a large room.



The Sun Hotel on Nguyen Huu Cau, just off Hai Ba Trung, near the Catholic Cathedral, has clean rooms and excellent service starting at USD 37.



THe Bong Sen Hotel, although government owned, is also recommended. It has rooms for USD 40 (after negotiation), with a breakfast buffet included. The address is 117 - 123 Dong Khoi St. Tel 8291516, Fax 8298076, e-mail: bongsen@cesti.teltic.com.vn



The Mondial, just next door to the Bong Sen, at Dong Khoi Street offers rooms for USD 40 to 70. It is quiet and used mostly by business people working in HCMC.



The Houng Sen Hotel at 66-68-70 Dong Khoi Street has rooms for USD 40 to 90. They are said to have among the best prices for tours (an air-conditioned car to the Cu Chi tunnels and the Cao Dai Temple goes for USD 55).



The Continental Hotel is the most traditional hotel in Saigon. It was the place to be during the American war. A room is about USD 160.



The Rex has a wonderful terrasse on its roof overlooking the intersection of Le Loi St. and Ngueyen Hue Boulevard. The rooms start at USD 126.



One of the best hotels is the five star Saigon Floating Hotel in the Saigon river, where it is towed up since it has been towed from the Great Barrier Reef in Australia in 1989. It is under Swiss management. The address is 1A Me Linh Square, Tel 8290783, Fax 8290784. Rooms start at USD 117 including breakfast.

Eating Kim Cafe and Sinh Cafe (6 Pham Ngu Lao St) are known all over Saigon. The area around those two travelling cafes that also offer tours (see tours section) is full of cheap places to eat. I prefered Kim Cafe over Sinh Cafe, because the service was much better (in fact, excellent), and the beggars and post card selling kids were not allowed to come into Kim Cafe.

There is an excellent pizza restaurant at Pham Ngu Lao St, towards Cholon from Kim Cafe.

Another good place for Italien food is the Trattoria Santa Lucia at Dai Lo Nguyen Hue Street.

A meeting place for Italian people is the meeting point at Cafe Latin close to Dong Khoi Street.

Que Huong/Vietnam Motherland on the same street has very good food and big portions.

The Zen Vegetarian retaurant, down an alley opposite Kim Cafe offers vegetarian food.

There is a nice (and cheap) cafe at 123 Nguyen Hue Boulevard called Lan Phuong. The owner is very nice and didn't try to overchage me (something special in this 'region of the rich tourists' in Saigon.)

An excellent and lovely restaurant on Dong Khoi is Tan Nam. It's beautifully decorated and the food and its presentation were superb.

The small pho restaurant just opposite the War Crimes Museum is a good choice as well. Make sure you go there before going to the museum.

One of the most famous, and most expensive, retaurants is Maxim's. It's full of Japanese and certainly overrated.

A special treat is the Indochine Restaurant (Dong Duong) at 144 Tran Hung Dao Street (Tel 8395476). It's not exactly cheap, but has very good food. They have the strangest of dishes, such as goat penis, pig brain, snake head and uterus.

Another special treat is an evening at the rooftop bar or on the terasse of the Rex hotel. The main attraction is the superb view over one of the busiest intersections of Saigon. In the evening, especially before holidays, Saigon's youth gather there to 'see and been seen'. Although prices were about three times of Kim Cafe, the service was lousy. But of course location and view cost as well... Another idea to spend a quiet day is to use the swimming pool in the Rex.

The famous Apocalypse Now has reopened in December 1996 at 2C Thi Sach Street. This bar is very popular with Western travellers. Although open earlier, it doesn't start to get crowded until 10pm.

A bar that has often live music it the Buffalo Blues at 72A Nguyen Du, District 1, Tel 822 2874.

There is a new cafe called Condom. Financed by the Medecins du Monde, it hands out condoms. It also answers questions to AIDS.

Of course, new American cuisine is moving in as well. There is a Baskin and Robins ice-cream parlour on Tran Hung Dao Boulevard.

Note: Beware of the aggressive street vendors on Dong Khoi St. between the Continental and the Majestic Hotels. They are gangs of professional pickpockets (meaning they get your money before you notice it!) Crime is in the rise in the streets of Saigon. There are not only the usual stories of stolen cameras, shoes, walkmen, bags, and what else, but I also got word of a group of twenty elderly French tourists being robbed by a gang of about 25 boys just after they left the hotel for a daytrip. The police is obviously used to these kind of things. They are very helpful, if not friendly, and know the procedures of filing a report (e.g. for the insurance.) If you look around in some markets you will most likely be able to buy back your stolen goods.

Internet: Cafe "333", 201 De Tham St. hue@netnam2.org.vn, Fax 8360205. Only e-mail for the time being.

Lisa Hotel Saigon, 353 An Duong Vuong St., lisa@saigon.teltic.com.vn or lisa@lisasaigon.com, URL http://www.lisasaigon.com, Tel 8351908, Fax 8351850. Send/receive email VND 1250/2500 per kB.

Tin Cafe, 2A Le Duan. PQHOI@bdvn.vnmail.vnd.net. Tel / Fax 8229655. VND 4,000/1,000 per kB (line) send/receive, offline 10,000/hour, printout 2,000/10,000 per page b-w/c.

Cholon (Chinatown) bustles with activity that is of interest in itself, but the finest pagodas in Saigon are also found here.

Cha Tam Church Built around the turn of the century, this is where President Ngo Dinh Diem was captured and assassinated with his brother in November 1963.

Nghia An Hoi Quan Pagoda Visitors are greeted by a magnificent carved wooden boat hanging over the entrance and immediately to the left is an oversized representation of Quan Cong's horse and groom. At the main altar is Quan Cong flanked by General Chau Xuong and the mandarin Quan Binh in glass cases.

Tam Son Hoi Quan Pagoda This pagoda, built in the 19th century by Fukien immigrants, is dedicated to Chua Thai Sanh, the Goddess of Fertility. The pagoda attracts visits from childless women.

Quan Am Pagoda This is thought to be the oldest pagoda in the city. The complex contains a series of courtyards and altars dedicated to a range of deities and spirits. The roof of the main structure supports four sets of ornate figures and is fronted with old gold and lacquer panels of guardian spirits. The main altar displays a seated statue of A-Pho, the Holy Mother, in front of which is a white ceramic statue of Quan Am, the Goddess of Purity and Motherhood.

Thien Hau Pagoda This early 19th century pagoda is dedicated to the worship of both Buddha and Thien Hau Thanh Mau - Goddess of the Sea and protector of sailors. The most interesting part of the pagoda is the roof, richly decorated with the high-relief frieze depicting episodes from the Legends of the Three Kingdoms. It is one of the most ornate in Vietnam and can best be seen from the open courtyard.

Phung Son Pagoda Also known as Go Pagoda, it was built on the site of an earlier Cambodian structure at the beginning of the 19th century. There is a large seated gilded Buddha in the inner sanctuary surrounded by a variety of other figures from several Asian and Southeast Asian countries.

Shopping in Cholon

Binh Tay Market Binh Tay, with a wonderful array of noises, smells and colors, is one of the most colorful and exciting markets in Saigon.

Phuoc Hai Tu Pagoda Built by local Cantonese in 1909, this is one of the most colorful pagodas in Saigon. Dedicated to the Emperor of Jade, the supreme Taoist god, this temple also contains a wide range of other deities including the Buddhist archangel Michael, a Sakyamuni Buddha, statues of two generals who tamed the Green and the White Dragon, and Quan Am. There is also a Hall of Ten Hells with reliefs depicting the one thousand tortures of hell. Women sell birds at the pagoda that are set free to gain merit and there is a pond containing large turtles.

Tran Hung Dao Pagoda This temple was built in 1932 for the worship of the victorious 13th century general Hung Dao. It contains a series of bas-reliefs depicting the general's successes, carved dragons, and weapons.

Vinh Nghiem Pagoda A Japanese-style pagoda completed in 1967, it is one of the largest in Vietnam. The structure is a classical seven-story pagoda with a spacious sanctuary.(only open on holidays). Inside is a large Japanese-style Buddha in an attitude of meditation, flanked by two goddesses.

Le Van Duyet Temple Le Van Duyet is the South Vietnamese hero who put down the Tay Son Rebellion and reunited Vietnam. The main sanctuary displays a strange collection of the Marshal's personal possessions: a stuffed tiger, a miniature mountain, whale baleen, carved elephants, crystal goblets, spears, and other weapons of war. The Marshal is buried here with his wife.

Giac Vien Tu Pagoda The Pagoda of Buddha's Complete Enlightenment was built in 1771 and dedicated to the worship of the Emperor Gia Long. Although restored, Giac Vien Tu remains one of the best preserved temples in Vietnam. It is lavishly decorated, with over 100 carvings of various divinities and spirits, dominated by a large gilded image of Sakyamuni.

Giac Lam Pagoda Built in 1744, the Forest of Enlightenment Pagoda is the oldest in Saigon. It has a sacred Bodhi tree in the courtyard, the gift of a monk from Sri Lanka, and curious for the blue and white porcelain plates used to decorate the roof and some of the small towers in the garden facing the pagoda. Inside there are rows of funerary tablets with pictures of the dead and a main altar with layers of Buddhas dominated by the Buddha of the Past. Particularly interesting is a 49-Buddha oil lamp. The monks are very friendly and are a good source for the history of the pagoda. Some speak good English and French.

Tunnels of Cu Chi About 22 miles (36 km) northwest of Saigon is a short section of the 124 miles (200 km) of tunnels that has been widened to allow tourists to share the underground experience. The Viet Minh began work on the tunnels in 1948 and used them for storage and shelter with sleeping quarters, hospitals and schools. Cu Chi was zealously Communist and the tunnels were used by the Viet Cong to launch the Tet Offensive in 1968. Admission US$3.

Nui Ba Den Black Lady Mountain rises dramatically from the plain 66 miles (106 km) from Saigon. Reaching a height of almost 3,280 feet (1,000 m), there is a good vantage of the surrounding plain from the top. A number of shrines to the Black Woman are located on the mountain and pilgrims still visit the site. Fierce battles were fought here between the French and Americans, and the Viet Minh.

Ho Chi Minh City Buses stop at a clutch of different terminals - the remotest of which are 17km away from each other. Arrivals from Phnom Penh in Cambodia terminate slap-bang in the centre of town at the Phnom Penh Garage, next to the Rex Hotel at 155 Nguyen Hue Boulevard, from where it's only a short cyclo ride to all the central hotels and guesthouses.

Most buses from the north arrive at sprawling Mien Dong bus station, 5km north of the city on Xo Viet Nghe Tinh; local buses shuttle between here and central Ben Thanh bus station, a five-minute walk from Pham Ngu Lao; or take a cyclo mai ($2-3) to save time. The only exceptions to the rule are certain minibus services from Da Lat, Phan Thiet and Vung Tau, which arrive at Van Thanh bus station, 3km north of the city centre on Dien Bien Phu - again, a cyclo mai is your best method of transport into town, though there are xe lams and cyclos if you aren't in a hurry.

Buses from the south terminate at Mien Tay bus station, 10km west of the city centre in An Lac District; local buses shuttle into town from here, passing along Pham Ngu Lao en route. Again, there are exceptions, with some buses out of My Tho stopping instead at Cholon bus stn, from where air-cond Saigon Star buses provide a cheep and unusually comfortable means of accessing the city - white, with blue and yellow stripes, you can't miss them if you walk out of the station and along Huynh Thoai Yen towards Binh Tay Market. Well-signposted shuttle buses between Mien Tay and Mien Dong terminals make it possible to bypass central Saigon altogether, in the unlikely event that you want to travel from the Mekong Delta to the north or vice versa.

Finally, buses from Tay Ninh pull in at the Tay Ninh bus station, west of the airport and just above the confluence of Cach Mang Thang Tam and Le Dai Hanh, and linked by bus with Ben Thanh Bus Station; most arrivals from Cu Chi town also end their journeys here, though some continue on to Ben Thanh.

Walk down to the waterfront on Dong Khoi street from Notre Dame past the Caravel Htl to the Statue of Tran Hung Dao then turn right to the Thieves Mkt to the south on Ton That Dam.

Dong Khoi St use to be Rue Catinat and Tu Do during 60s. Caravelle Htl has been renovated to $$$$ with the HRC. Loi's GH, Coco Loco (8Rms), Hoan Vu Htl

Cholon: Tran Hung Dao Blvd/Luopng Nhu Hoc